tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72695701461237801052024-03-06T04:23:40.844+03:00Turkishly DelightfulMelindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.comBlogger201125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-44901809569802617802013-10-09T21:30:00.000+03:002013-10-09T21:30:10.738+03:00Visiting Kas, againKas! You know I love Kas -- I've talked about it endlessly, <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/visiting-kas.html">here</a> and <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-in-kas.html">here</a> and <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-finding-santa-claus-in-demre.html">here</a>. So it should come as no surprise that we wrapped up our July trip around Turkey in our most favorite spot. :)<br />
<br />
On previous trips, we'd stayed in a hotel or pension in town, but this time, we decided to shake things up a little, and we rented an apartment on the peninsula for a week. Overall, we enjoyed it -- the peninsula is really quiet and we had a spectacular view of the Mediterranean and the <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-across-to-kastellorizo-greece.html">Greek island of Kastellorizo</a> from the balcony. The only negative (if it's really a negative) is that the peninsula houses are deceptively far from town, probably 20-25 minutes from the farthest point. That means you need a car -- it was fine for us as Cagatay's uncle let us borrow his but might not be all that practical as a visitor (unless you were going to do self-guided day trips to places like Saklikent Gorge, <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-finding-santa-claus-in-demre.html">St. Nicholas Church in Demre</a> and <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-ruins-of-tlos-and-patara.html">ancient ruins like Patara and Tlos</a>, where you'd need a rental car anyway).<br />
<br />
Our view from the apartment:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPtqa6Leqpa7KN3lUwYLvXzcNHU0saV6OOGUV0TIKAlIf8SWRffHd1b_oNptIjRwlVkjPjuAkFMckRFD_yEOvv8UwiSOEIuoUIjBlGhFt8ugCykrjsfok4YoWlHk_Jly2ggM0PV9T3DuX/s1600/Kas-peninsula-Turkey-view-bougainvilla.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPtqa6Leqpa7KN3lUwYLvXzcNHU0saV6OOGUV0TIKAlIf8SWRffHd1b_oNptIjRwlVkjPjuAkFMckRFD_yEOvv8UwiSOEIuoUIjBlGhFt8ugCykrjsfok4YoWlHk_Jly2ggM0PV9T3DuX/s640/Kas-peninsula-Turkey-view-bougainvilla.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8T71QqzQX8sJPkm1w4nvz8qzOx2FHYpUQx_wq05m805EldELI0DX3CoL93whO3igiGDsIV7RzBMPTkMsADakfbcPGWWyxBxn1TeTwBuGXyFztdEpsKA1eQP-vNsUFe77yA3v9K0KkxT-Z/s1600/Kastellorizo-Greece-bougainvilla-beautiful-island-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8T71QqzQX8sJPkm1w4nvz8qzOx2FHYpUQx_wq05m805EldELI0DX3CoL93whO3igiGDsIV7RzBMPTkMsADakfbcPGWWyxBxn1TeTwBuGXyFztdEpsKA1eQP-vNsUFe77yA3v9K0KkxT-Z/s640/Kastellorizo-Greece-bougainvilla-beautiful-island-view.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Local friends:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXsqVvvgNDn4K-9N20D3__hzCA5QRsQMWLat41ovUAE_yqtKD6yYP9d9eQGNFxCPpyNBpGV-T8yjPTo-epw2z_Nu9QREvTK3l64M-KHEmbPj_Wtq_dQuWD4Gs-ZzN73I6btH27Jm0jyKC/s1600/Feral-cat-Kas-Turkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXsqVvvgNDn4K-9N20D3__hzCA5QRsQMWLat41ovUAE_yqtKD6yYP9d9eQGNFxCPpyNBpGV-T8yjPTo-epw2z_Nu9QREvTK3l64M-KHEmbPj_Wtq_dQuWD4Gs-ZzN73I6btH27Jm0jyKC/s640/Feral-cat-Kas-Turkey.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4lkdyFe3Bnm-Yiv2K91T59AzV-AJs-AX8LsN_9Ds8dXHT53bDJCi8fAZkPb5uceZ-6JAIIHYIBV8fW0i9lNknE442A6Pz-wKU3wmOTRaOZejSleqCEQB7Wg_q-9wWzB7qo-ysqHWAQefs/s1600/Feral-mother-cat-kitten-Kas-Turkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4lkdyFe3Bnm-Yiv2K91T59AzV-AJs-AX8LsN_9Ds8dXHT53bDJCi8fAZkPb5uceZ-6JAIIHYIBV8fW0i9lNknE442A6Pz-wKU3wmOTRaOZejSleqCEQB7Wg_q-9wWzB7qo-ysqHWAQefs/s640/Feral-mother-cat-kitten-Kas-Turkey.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
Driving along the peninsula:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOzj4zg1uUhhEB6rq8nN_tm5oFYAMP9G3ZSwWtvttnRxxuLLtmIWRIG5OkMTkx4layU3G8GmKO-yqXy3FgGanaF1jwKtSLdi8_lWqT-eICorjupMwjjGbowaJmk8UC0n3rejzxSKwSZz0x/s1600/Kas-peninsula-Turkey-Mediterranean-gulet-sail-boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOzj4zg1uUhhEB6rq8nN_tm5oFYAMP9G3ZSwWtvttnRxxuLLtmIWRIG5OkMTkx4layU3G8GmKO-yqXy3FgGanaF1jwKtSLdi8_lWqT-eICorjupMwjjGbowaJmk8UC0n3rejzxSKwSZz0x/s640/Kas-peninsula-Turkey-Mediterranean-gulet-sail-boat.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
We originally planned to do some sightseeing, like finally make it to Saklikent Gorge, but in the end, we didn't do much besides hang out at the beach with Cagatay's family, enjoy the view from our balcony, and eat. What can I say, we were exhausted from packing up for America and traveling around for a few weeks. But doing nothing is lovely -- Kas is such a great town to just wander around in.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7wWzNkN8MF0NuxtO7Gdiih7zmTzoOZujf9ZlBAOHZ8R9b-libr-xxdk5mpo2lvytmFE7A9tJDhgEKkIkImsOFZJL99l1N1bu5c0oTc4xctwEJh8AhnMxtvl-Nr4azkHt6dkxWcga6hSp9/s1600/Kas-Turkey-shopping-colorful-pestemels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7wWzNkN8MF0NuxtO7Gdiih7zmTzoOZujf9ZlBAOHZ8R9b-libr-xxdk5mpo2lvytmFE7A9tJDhgEKkIkImsOFZJL99l1N1bu5c0oTc4xctwEJh8AhnMxtvl-Nr4azkHt6dkxWcga6hSp9/s640/Kas-Turkey-shopping-colorful-pestemels.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGEcVqT4Djs7JH_5-uqjtGuwDtib26w1eDwTVcMvLmJXhEHByawoY_0b0uDQ1Y2ZHbq2mMGdyrNKkFJ1ZcTTPAPPvwjl0W58wPHYJtGwclPlRpMv_KTcPQAZWyWup0SyBz3Mz6-KK9IeYI/s1600/Sleeping-cat-Kas-jewelry-Turkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGEcVqT4Djs7JH_5-uqjtGuwDtib26w1eDwTVcMvLmJXhEHByawoY_0b0uDQ1Y2ZHbq2mMGdyrNKkFJ1ZcTTPAPPvwjl0W58wPHYJtGwclPlRpMv_KTcPQAZWyWup0SyBz3Mz6-KK9IeYI/s640/Sleeping-cat-Kas-jewelry-Turkey.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYNDJCOKbBbtxdesvr8M7arqySCdjLpdOJbf0Sfc2J9yyPYa1KPWnb1IJEVcd28c6wc_zd3p2Z2nNwhQ1G3Yq_cCVK678cLQ_CqBhm76BqLaW3_Th8_eWpSc7DToCypu3rKk3PIj_S3wMO/s1600/Kas-Turkey-harbor-late-afternoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYNDJCOKbBbtxdesvr8M7arqySCdjLpdOJbf0Sfc2J9yyPYa1KPWnb1IJEVcd28c6wc_zd3p2Z2nNwhQ1G3Yq_cCVK678cLQ_CqBhm76BqLaW3_Th8_eWpSc7DToCypu3rKk3PIj_S3wMO/s640/Kas-Turkey-harbor-late-afternoon.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7CsO0ds70bX080RmkKhGeLZr4FRmrl7CdiJ1jSXPjSGaNBwQH-tlnmtVxjJSNwT-M5C6k-raCx0EZjd2y3OplQRMHvi5TVs1lUuh7oZFra2NAmMEY_O4_TALuZz0UM8Ne016vxvNOUTlA/s1600/Kas-Turkey-harbor-pyramid-monument-tomb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7CsO0ds70bX080RmkKhGeLZr4FRmrl7CdiJ1jSXPjSGaNBwQH-tlnmtVxjJSNwT-M5C6k-raCx0EZjd2y3OplQRMHvi5TVs1lUuh7oZFra2NAmMEY_O4_TALuZz0UM8Ne016vxvNOUTlA/s640/Kas-Turkey-harbor-pyramid-monument-tomb.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA7vp3y6EDWpGK9DQGX_H5rcXzULe8PDUxOVUBghj19DgoK9v9LBYXrlIb0aNkwYBxsZ0HLXey53umITW5RcL6lVtcjTvHrBumYWgNEF0Efexdyv94PJgtnXiMgEkESLfpNUUb7W2E4LsA/s1600/Kas-Turkey-pier-late-afternoon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA7vp3y6EDWpGK9DQGX_H5rcXzULe8PDUxOVUBghj19DgoK9v9LBYXrlIb0aNkwYBxsZ0HLXey53umITW5RcL6lVtcjTvHrBumYWgNEF0Efexdyv94PJgtnXiMgEkESLfpNUUb7W2E4LsA/s640/Kas-Turkey-pier-late-afternoon.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQ4nEOUP4JrXslnIZM2n3bnd0nbGvHkPnPsWmOWOLelibW89MTSswdqgpOOzom1QMlNXiPQcWk7wqqU2W3jtP4rXuaJ0-pTpDPoT70JwoWaaUz1z8egnk1ziJawj2z4RHQDnOT0STqZ8t/s1600/Kas-Turkey-meydan-Ataturk-statue-night-life.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuQ4nEOUP4JrXslnIZM2n3bnd0nbGvHkPnPsWmOWOLelibW89MTSswdqgpOOzom1QMlNXiPQcWk7wqqU2W3jtP4rXuaJ0-pTpDPoT70JwoWaaUz1z8egnk1ziJawj2z4RHQDnOT0STqZ8t/s640/Kas-Turkey-meydan-Ataturk-statue-night-life.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-91406715767159600362013-10-06T21:00:00.000+03:002013-10-06T21:00:18.651+03:00Visiting Troy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv-3SzF_DUpUruBUxxwTjhkP6Et6y8a1vPjrZJvoUte0to5juAzl95r4eGK65LJrFYm4Pr4YE_AGQlwYdO24pUIiO1Ne4BTDTFYiP5Uc-Yoqxp9X4rUqHjFd3Ut1UNKH2zvhqGWXF7wjnq/s1600/Canakkale-Sari-River-early-morning-seagulls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv-3SzF_DUpUruBUxxwTjhkP6Et6y8a1vPjrZJvoUte0to5juAzl95r4eGK65LJrFYm4Pr4YE_AGQlwYdO24pUIiO1Ne4BTDTFYiP5Uc-Yoqxp9X4rUqHjFd3Ut1UNKH2zvhqGWXF7wjnq/s320/Canakkale-Sari-River-early-morning-seagulls.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The main reason that we <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/10/visiting-canakkale.html">stayed in Canakkale</a> was to make the trek out to the archaeological ruins of Troy. It was something that I'd wanted to do for quite awhile, but I'd skipped it on my original backpacking trip around Turkey because rumor had it that there's not a lot to see. (Consider this sentence from the Lonely Planet Turkey guide: "It has to be said, if it wasn't for the name -- and its legendary associations -- almost nobody would visit this place.") We'd put it off until our last month in Turkey, but it was still something I really, really wanted to do before we moved away, and I'd even read Homer's <i>The Iliad</i> in the spring to prepare. :)<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Getting to Troy is a little complicated. We went the do-it-yourself route, using Lonely Planet's advice to take the dolmus (minibus) from the depot under the bridge that spans the river (the bridge is on Ataturk Caddesi, and the depot is on the north side of the bridge -- it's easier to find than it sounds). We stopped by the afternoon before, and the guy told Cagatay that the bus left at 8am. It turned out that wasn't true, and the next morning, the guy denied he'd ever said that (which was weird, considering they're both native Turkish speakers). It was only later that we found a posted bus schedule, hidden the first time by the dolmus -- I'll post a photo of the one that we found mid-July, but I would recommend trying to find it yourself to make sure it's still the same schedule. (Click on the photo to see a larger, more readable version.)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwdjsJHTlgk1IduXhlELB_F9yFS60iNC8mS_ELSjc2RaYxXA5mCPDdDoCtGqC2U2GFWeTvDLSuK9_dHzcZvUaKnIHVvFXR02ViYQUs4KkAPpyL7MjV8HZVc_w5JTQPuHCOU_LJJ4idzCN/s1600/Bus-schedule-from-Canakkale-to-Troy-ruins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwdjsJHTlgk1IduXhlELB_F9yFS60iNC8mS_ELSjc2RaYxXA5mCPDdDoCtGqC2U2GFWeTvDLSuK9_dHzcZvUaKnIHVvFXR02ViYQUs4KkAPpyL7MjV8HZVc_w5JTQPuHCOU_LJJ4idzCN/s400/Bus-schedule-from-Canakkale-to-Troy-ruins.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
All three signs are the same -- the first column (Cannakale'den) shows the times the dolmus leaves from Canakkale, and the second column (Truvadan) shows the times the dolmus leaves from Troy. The note at the bottom is irrelevant to our purposes. The bus drops you off right at the entry to the archaeological site, so that part's pretty easy.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The only other options for getting to Troy on your own are to rent a car or to pay for a VERY expensive taxi. You could also join a group tour, one that would most likely take in both the Troy ruins and the Gallipoli battlefields -- and while we eventually made it to Troy and everything after that was fine, in retrospect, perhaps we should have gone that route.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Anyway, so we finally made it to Troy, albeit it on a later bus. Troy! It's not Turkey's greatest archaeological site, not by far, but I still thought it was pretty awesome. We bought a guidebook at the official on-site souvenir shop before we started out (Troia/Wilusa guidebook by Manfred O. Korfmann), but it turned out the informational signs at Troy are very good and had the exact same information.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Homer's Troy is thought to be Troy VI, the sixth settlement built on the site. According to a diorama next to <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/10/visiting-canakkale.html">the giant Trojan horse in Canakkale</a>, this is what Troy looked like then:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB0fsWE6_-0jZMLUSkyoX-RAUWXZLAy5kp3oxDbf59Fg7a7wDFfFW68zH-Bmw35C0xXoy4xSzl3UAN0iI7Fh_K6oYyIIAyMM3XtaVGK0lYo018WEc-wN9uA9VlHh5BAsJrD2j8aM7snrBH/s1600/Model-of-Troy-VI-Homer's-Troy-Canakkale-Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB0fsWE6_-0jZMLUSkyoX-RAUWXZLAy5kp3oxDbf59Fg7a7wDFfFW68zH-Bmw35C0xXoy4xSzl3UAN0iI7Fh_K6oYyIIAyMM3XtaVGK0lYo018WEc-wN9uA9VlHh5BAsJrD2j8aM7snrBH/s640/Model-of-Troy-VI-Homer's-Troy-Canakkale-Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
According to the <i>Iliad</i>, the Trojans mostly stayed within their city walls while the Achaeans camped outside, besieging them for 10 long years. Troy was and is located a little bit inland, so when things get going in year 10 in the <i>Iliad</i>, the armies fight on the wide plain between the city and the Achaeans' ships. It's a little hard to envision on the ground, of course, which is why I loved this photo of the ruins of Troy that we saw in Canakkale's archaeological museum:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXkqC2P3AWzFNim5Kbvmvx5kK5ueURITMWF6M5p_Uo7J0rK5acoVUFcP3DHBkjHO2jdlXFolZ4rtDfCquV6kRo-51nd8Ec5aKPVhaeJ17ZMTuSN84EwDeLOLYlOAWZ4efO8-wtMHS0wDA/s1600/Aerial-photograph-Troy-ruins-Canakkale-museum.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPXkqC2P3AWzFNim5Kbvmvx5kK5ueURITMWF6M5p_Uo7J0rK5acoVUFcP3DHBkjHO2jdlXFolZ4rtDfCquV6kRo-51nd8Ec5aKPVhaeJ17ZMTuSN84EwDeLOLYlOAWZ4efO8-wtMHS0wDA/s640/Aerial-photograph-Troy-ruins-Canakkale-museum.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
When we were there, it was a clear day, and from Troy, we could even see across the water to a couple of the Gallipoli monuments, vague and hazy but there. It's one of the things I most love about Turkey, the constant reminder of all the important things that have happened over the ages on this same stretch of land. C'mon, we trampled the same ground as Achilles and Odysseus and Helen! It kinda blows my mind. (Okay, I know what you're thinking, Homer cribbed heavily from other, older legends and his characters were a product of that, but regardless if the likes of Achilles, Odysseus, Helen and the rest <i>actually</i> existed, this area of the world is where these stories were born, and that's still awesome.)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZE2IhrxnhMAVWONk2LNQqY54QIvOs5gfPfeUI61wyRF4A538HSLIzjOMgzoEjVDDZJQDdggbeauIjQkspF4tD6OrQEFVOw9uzn3oj_Xxk6fKDqS_duSF_NY6kzHm4QIH_oeAsaeBhBMY/s1600/Troy-ruins-Gallipoli-monuments-in-distance.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZE2IhrxnhMAVWONk2LNQqY54QIvOs5gfPfeUI61wyRF4A538HSLIzjOMgzoEjVDDZJQDdggbeauIjQkspF4tD6OrQEFVOw9uzn3oj_Xxk6fKDqS_duSF_NY6kzHm4QIH_oeAsaeBhBMY/s640/Troy-ruins-Gallipoli-monuments-in-distance.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Anyway, so the first thing you see when you get to the archaeological site is, perhaps appropriately, the walls of Troy VI, and thus the walls that defended the Trojans from those pesky Achaeans. There are very few structures remaining at Troy, and it's arguably the most notable:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIIkFiODem90-pd60dOQNORQ79cV-eLCI99QB6iRq3rlyuLT7q3fkp2JZ0plR_-lzx6jZoiJOdobo-3KkBwZPNewTory2A4XdufPXE-jYitaYIYHEv4W1AXaE4DU5v36b9LKLZKFvm0o0_/s1600/East-Wall-Troy-VI-archaeological-site.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIIkFiODem90-pd60dOQNORQ79cV-eLCI99QB6iRq3rlyuLT7q3fkp2JZ0plR_-lzx6jZoiJOdobo-3KkBwZPNewTory2A4XdufPXE-jYitaYIYHEv4W1AXaE4DU5v36b9LKLZKFvm0o0_/s640/East-Wall-Troy-VI-archaeological-site.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Then, up and around the bend, you come to the site of Athena's Temple, where there's absolutely nothing left but a few bits of masonry on the ground. But some of the carvings were fun -- we thought one looked like Yoda, another like Lego blocks.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebmvXWIvWyAq7g3D5za3XSKtzDFMC-Nm7-yT0e6yIndjYnlTnmTU8MRDICkQprElUR9cI8X3lJEHxRCQBJnG-4taxAPjDrZw-5uxd0xoMYMmkBP9JWtjdemV1yrvWwqFfpOu01-XHLXpU/s1600/Yoda-Lego-carved-stone-Troy-ruins.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjebmvXWIvWyAq7g3D5za3XSKtzDFMC-Nm7-yT0e6yIndjYnlTnmTU8MRDICkQprElUR9cI8X3lJEHxRCQBJnG-4taxAPjDrZw-5uxd0xoMYMmkBP9JWtjdemV1yrvWwqFfpOu01-XHLXpU/s640/Yoda-Lego-carved-stone-Troy-ruins.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The short version of Troy's history as an archaeological site is that for a long time, most people believed that <i>The Odyssey</i> and <i>The Iliad</i> were not true stories but legends and so didn't think that Troy existed. But in the 1800s (and the late 1700s, for that matter), all things ancient Greek and Roman were in vogue in Western Europe, and so there were some who went in search of Troy anyway, notably German businessman Herman Schliemann, who began working at the site in 1871. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
But Schliemann's methods were roughshod and apparently he was more interested in finding notable artifacts than properly excavating the site. He believed that Homer's Troy was the bottom level of the site and so carelessly dug through the other layers -- the first area he worked in was this 40-meter-wide trench, now called Schliemann's Trench, which ended up exposing a city wall of Troy I, from the Early Bronze Age, plus the foundation of several houses from that period. To be honest, I'm not sure which is which in the photo:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNJV-MJ38tiH2_jXdlh8SP2r4ibYtvMC4YyZTEF03B1K1r37qlP8KGzjeGJbvgMqov1Cuwg7JlBgnzeZJ-pyjkUbyItUMezAw0AaR-r1LG0UAjLRcBjPNQYeMS9UJKsJHg_NgpVHKaeNh/s1600/Schliemann's-Trench-Troy-archaeological-ruins.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNJV-MJ38tiH2_jXdlh8SP2r4ibYtvMC4YyZTEF03B1K1r37qlP8KGzjeGJbvgMqov1Cuwg7JlBgnzeZJ-pyjkUbyItUMezAw0AaR-r1LG0UAjLRcBjPNQYeMS9UJKsJHg_NgpVHKaeNh/s400/Schliemann's-Trench-Troy-archaeological-ruins.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Nearby, Schliemann also found a hoard of gold artifacts (later named Priam's Treasure), and because he found them in a burnt layer next to an impressively large ramp, he believed that he had found Homer's Troy and the famous Scaean Gate. However, it was later established by other archaeologists that these bits belonged to Troy II. According to the guidebook, the treasure was found at the site of the small tree on the left; the ramp is coming up from the right, and the gates would have been at the top. There's<a href="http://www.cerhas.uc.edu/troy/pano2b.html"> a cool 3-D reconstruction</a> comparing the gate from then to now at this University of Cincinnati/University of Tubingen website dedicated to Troy.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz8JWr9UYebcSAZneIQgq7-yU0q8VZY6qfZmZ2xoiKOctoWRYbFddV9_hD7mianRs4LxVRNwQNuLKCaIQ4U6aTEV2-Gu6UHxO6lb-3VUMf8Sp9M_nL09XgF5PgCUHsvpFHXdm9huSzUuNE/s1600/Troy-II-archaeological-site-ramp-fake-Scaean-gate-Priam's-treasure.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz8JWr9UYebcSAZneIQgq7-yU0q8VZY6qfZmZ2xoiKOctoWRYbFddV9_hD7mianRs4LxVRNwQNuLKCaIQ4U6aTEV2-Gu6UHxO6lb-3VUMf8Sp9M_nL09XgF5PgCUHsvpFHXdm9huSzUuNE/s640/Troy-II-archaeological-site-ramp-fake-Scaean-gate-Priam's-treasure.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There's also a small amphitheater from Troy IX, but probably our biggest highlight after Schliemann's area was meeting one of the local residents:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzBaazSMiJra8ZZte5233CzrwOM0xzIayvHGhDw9WywfoXjOsW40_iFv_5KgKS3zkLyvhCUDDIDwnIGWcsHArUkUeuf_4O5gzitQ_efqN4F2OMBtd8y4zehYNItf7ML7M86tVXU_3PXCw/s1600/Troy-archaeological-ruins-local-cat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzBaazSMiJra8ZZte5233CzrwOM0xzIayvHGhDw9WywfoXjOsW40_iFv_5KgKS3zkLyvhCUDDIDwnIGWcsHArUkUeuf_4O5gzitQ_efqN4F2OMBtd8y4zehYNItf7ML7M86tVXU_3PXCw/s640/Troy-archaeological-ruins-local-cat.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgsR-Ie4z7jJzjuKbuZMb_Ju4Nw6mqh5_9DX65-jaH-ESyfE1nv366-W62HyfX56wkehGbj_9YY5RBoYMEbq9D9SQYELT_TCCW2EQnMqS6FxJa4s4RDicLYgvkq8gnoeAuxt7kSKe9TjgB/s1600/Troy-ruins-cat.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgsR-Ie4z7jJzjuKbuZMb_Ju4Nw6mqh5_9DX65-jaH-ESyfE1nv366-W62HyfX56wkehGbj_9YY5RBoYMEbq9D9SQYELT_TCCW2EQnMqS6FxJa4s4RDicLYgvkq8gnoeAuxt7kSKe9TjgB/s640/Troy-ruins-cat.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUlrxrBzPmabwlPGUp9_1Ug66ybp2__4xUTn75CLpj5iFvPbUP584-ErbR_2_LDfMyzz2lHIVfBJbJEnElLXIv3Q7dca06JYS-GJ2eIqwuGBAMWjlHupKSpTY5EBXeiWgAWePfO87jVjBX/s1600/Lower-city-late-Troy-VI.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUlrxrBzPmabwlPGUp9_1Ug66ybp2__4xUTn75CLpj5iFvPbUP584-ErbR_2_LDfMyzz2lHIVfBJbJEnElLXIv3Q7dca06JYS-GJ2eIqwuGBAMWjlHupKSpTY5EBXeiWgAWePfO87jVjBX/s640/Lower-city-late-Troy-VI.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Probably my biggest disappointment with Troy was that, while the signs mentioned that Schliemann's ramp was NOT the Scaean Gate, nothing ever talked about where it might have been. It's arguably the most recognizable bit of Homer's Troy -- Priam and the other elders of the city watch the battle from there, Priam and Helen bond there, Hector tells Achilles he is fated to die there -- so I decided to make my own guess. The last thing you see as you walk around the archaeological site is the pathway that would have led to Troy VI, which the guidebook says "must have been the main gate in this period." Sounds like the Scaean Gate to me. :)</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQzARkqoKj-_wF9uCtEv5MgGAvy21lj3aWZBEU1H8BaqdkAl4HxaYIISlQV2gBOMy6AQhyhE_6JpPzzT9x7ME9g_E075dnMDjJTjWKA8dgdsSpu_YrNyNg1WSHhV6HMRvWeW-5JwDdfQr/s1600/Troy-VI-south-gate-main-entrance.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQzARkqoKj-_wF9uCtEv5MgGAvy21lj3aWZBEU1H8BaqdkAl4HxaYIISlQV2gBOMy6AQhyhE_6JpPzzT9x7ME9g_E075dnMDjJTjWKA8dgdsSpu_YrNyNg1WSHhV6HMRvWeW-5JwDdfQr/s640/Troy-VI-south-gate-main-entrance.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The last thing you really see is -- or the first thing, depending on how you go about it -- is the wooden Trojan horse, built in 1975 by Izzet Senemoglu. While I preferred to style of Canakkale's horse, this one was much more climbable!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVC2D15YsMKKWF3-Bgz6Tw3LX_QLWKk77M68659JoAJxPOBO_AJklGwMe54uGyuWlLBHIMbUyx1XzkcRaKN65rMFeW6Qp5tUhTp05FtWweI-o5rK_qW2-1RB39XNitB0JVyrMKXdDPEnm-/s1600/IMG_0832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVC2D15YsMKKWF3-Bgz6Tw3LX_QLWKk77M68659JoAJxPOBO_AJklGwMe54uGyuWlLBHIMbUyx1XzkcRaKN65rMFeW6Qp5tUhTp05FtWweI-o5rK_qW2-1RB39XNitB0JVyrMKXdDPEnm-/s400/IMG_0832.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtpwpveEvJb8fhDhJKZOuWzLRuS4IwcfOV90Dk0EkbD6pQZoTw-3F7RRLLFCvF8e36zsYDwba-JvTUkOhzGiWN9ZWIXnxg1QA8-v8hRACB-btw00uWRQ-hLch-H-bWv7wMJ6sviX4G-ysT/s1600/Melinda-Troy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtpwpveEvJb8fhDhJKZOuWzLRuS4IwcfOV90Dk0EkbD6pQZoTw-3F7RRLLFCvF8e36zsYDwba-JvTUkOhzGiWN9ZWIXnxg1QA8-v8hRACB-btw00uWRQ-hLch-H-bWv7wMJ6sviX4G-ysT/s640/Melinda-Troy.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-25814434766909046802013-10-03T01:02:00.000+03:002013-10-03T01:03:27.396+03:00Visiting Canakkale<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCaYjYF_0Qw59ENaDqrMEXK4p7uYhG0sp3FbCY5WAq__6sNc6FvM2CYfAhVDPqYJl_2oldrRx5oB2JkB8p0iav-sdBx8orVmSbh-2GHK9tkbPJwJcg3fyxIkSLxz-3C6tlIX5Ag_Tzc05/s1600/Canakkale-Turkey-late-afternoon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCaYjYF_0Qw59ENaDqrMEXK4p7uYhG0sp3FbCY5WAq__6sNc6FvM2CYfAhVDPqYJl_2oldrRx5oB2JkB8p0iav-sdBx8orVmSbh-2GHK9tkbPJwJcg3fyxIkSLxz-3C6tlIX5Ag_Tzc05/s320/Canakkale-Turkey-late-afternoon.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
After <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/10/visiting-gokceada.html">our week on the island of Gokceada</a>, we headed south to the harbor town of Canakkale, gateway to the Troy ruins and the Gallipoli battlefields. I hadn't stopped there on my original backpacking tour of Turkey because there's not a lot to see and do in town, but I thought Canakkale was AMAZING.<br />
<br />
I suppose too, at this point, I have different standards now when we visit Turkish cities -- instead of focusing solely on the touristic attractions, the question always at the forefront of my brain is, <i>could I live here?</i> Because I really do love Turkey, I just never particularly enjoyed living in Istanbul, the city being so chaotic and impersonal and aggressive. But Canakkale, oh Canakkale...we could totally live there. It's a large enough city that you could likely find work -- which is the main issue with living in <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/visiting-kas.html">Kas, my favorite Turkish town</a> -- but small enough that its residents still seemed to be embracing a more laid-back, pleasures-of-life lifestyle. Plus, you could actually cross the road without taking your life into your hands!<br />
<br />
After settling into the hotel, we headed to Canakkale's archaeological museum on the outskirts of town. We ran into a woman who told us it was the greatest museum she'd ever been to, but I found it a little disappointing. It was fairly small, and like a lot of Turkey's museums, the exhibits were poorly labeled, so you rarely knew what you were looking at. It's not a must-see by any means, but I did find these ancient safety pins from the Troy archaeological site to be pretty cool:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1iOMgtQWDwqNzlFQGhuXbKz3pxM3xQVVvx_YcQ1Aouh10x__ZIBKMI4tZ7RX_pGdXIdYGOJuTW-69vFVdnF9Da_3rwiEN8nd7js1d4k0nkR2wbVpkmB9jYQ0sj3ok9yZiUA5olKwZvuH/s1600/Safety-pins-ancient-Troy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1iOMgtQWDwqNzlFQGhuXbKz3pxM3xQVVvx_YcQ1Aouh10x__ZIBKMI4tZ7RX_pGdXIdYGOJuTW-69vFVdnF9Da_3rwiEN8nd7js1d4k0nkR2wbVpkmB9jYQ0sj3ok9yZiUA5olKwZvuH/s640/Safety-pins-ancient-Troy.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The Canakkale museum also had a couple of gold laurel wreaths on display. The tag said they were from the Dardanos Tumulus and dated to the 4th century BC. It's kind of amazing that something so delicate survived, isn't it?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2YMypku5vrDBufFt03nkygZHnNU832AWRFPRQeeTnfA6hdSUNz0loSgkJ2AGmHSrzPe7_SbDfkOgfE9MxpnvoHqpWDbZ1nK7TTIakUoF6HvR0FkfOBfr3V9rtkvshXw483j1R2NGIIJ-/s1600/Gold-wreath-laurel-4th-century-BC-Dardanos-Tumulus-Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB2YMypku5vrDBufFt03nkygZHnNU832AWRFPRQeeTnfA6hdSUNz0loSgkJ2AGmHSrzPe7_SbDfkOgfE9MxpnvoHqpWDbZ1nK7TTIakUoF6HvR0FkfOBfr3V9rtkvshXw483j1R2NGIIJ-/s640/Gold-wreath-laurel-4th-century-BC-Dardanos-Tumulus-Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Later in the afternoon, we wandered around the harbor area. Our first stop was the Trojan Horse set piece that was used in the Brad Pitt <i>Troy</i> movie. According to imdb.com, <i>Troy</i> was filmed mainly in Malta (and not at all in Turkey), so I'm not sure how the horse ended up in Canakkale, but according to the sign, it's lived at the harbor since September 2004. It's impressively intricate, no?<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGl0qKYX5EKYMf7DPcRf0xaPRZpNiLiM0lPV1kSljSIdvHeZAwCDvgzZ7ha0cfA1Y8SVT1_1FiCKSXraHWphuSQDwjQ8qaS6aP8eKph1tUtcHHL0xS0xJZ7NTnBd4_3E1vCimvKz8QXjw3/s1600/Trojan-Horse-Troy-movie-Canakkale-Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGl0qKYX5EKYMf7DPcRf0xaPRZpNiLiM0lPV1kSljSIdvHeZAwCDvgzZ7ha0cfA1Y8SVT1_1FiCKSXraHWphuSQDwjQ8qaS6aP8eKph1tUtcHHL0xS0xJZ7NTnBd4_3E1vCimvKz8QXjw3/s640/Trojan-Horse-Troy-movie-Canakkale-Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVWx09sDOusiYkBWMqIIjDOELQXKuJbnD-gOVn98nMP3dEUsy2CCCggEHGLmPM4SaLgOMXDMto2AXZKX59NDlh8Qc-d5V1wxd8DsoKkRP0P5VE8-RpY8yu3wcDlNRg9zKOZvAUb6cKaCo/s1600/Canakkale-Trojan-Horse-Troy-movie-prop.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaVWx09sDOusiYkBWMqIIjDOELQXKuJbnD-gOVn98nMP3dEUsy2CCCggEHGLmPM4SaLgOMXDMto2AXZKX59NDlh8Qc-d5V1wxd8DsoKkRP0P5VE8-RpY8yu3wcDlNRg9zKOZvAUb6cKaCo/s640/Canakkale-Trojan-Horse-Troy-movie-prop.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
A little further down, as we strolled along the deliciously wide waterfront (further proof of the pleasures-of-life lifestyle -- space for everyone!), we came across a large mosaic inlaid in the cement that depicted a section of the Piri Reis map. Piri Reis was a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piri_Reis">late-15th century/early-16th century Ottoman admiral and cartographer</a>, likely born in Canakkale, who is best known today for his book of navigation and <a href="http://www.uwgb.edu/dutchs/pseudosc/piriries.htm">a specific 1513 map on gazelle skin</a> that is the oldest (one of the oldest?) to show the Americas. <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/news-294065-unesco-agrees-to-declare-2013-year-of-piri-reis.html">UNESCO declared 2013 the Year of Piri Reis</a>, coinciding with the 500th anniversary of the map, so Piri Reis has become a fairly popular figure in Istanbul this year. (I am still completely gutted that I missed the exhibition of the map earlier this year at Topkapi Palace, since they almost never bring it out for display. Like, I think I read it hadn't been out in like 15 <i>years</i>.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9afNcYcNzlMLHPsTynFGeb7khhuW92dkp9gJxviTuO2pRu3hnb_GwrY4maGenwL9gT8Rvo5140R5gaqH9cJoEs-pbsCFjQy7Nay29EJ3Cd3Os_sj657FIbJRl5T2sTB1nvE3TR9OEEHIg/s1600/Piri-Reis-map-mosaic-Canakkale-harbor-Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9afNcYcNzlMLHPsTynFGeb7khhuW92dkp9gJxviTuO2pRu3hnb_GwrY4maGenwL9gT8Rvo5140R5gaqH9cJoEs-pbsCFjQy7Nay29EJ3Cd3Os_sj657FIbJRl5T2sTB1nvE3TR9OEEHIg/s640/Piri-Reis-map-mosaic-Canakkale-harbor-Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdR-e3wmnJXscqM5ncBeNw4uzB_F2hbRgHifA29_rkk3_WkDDAlnHD4Tnko1emnWKRaREoVP-6p_KqiKya2XSxEDVjQQnJrffR3M5gYcYq9Fn_438FJ6kBXzou3DEDSiB5f0sJrdBP-xJ/s1600/Piri-Reis-world-map-mosaic-Canakkale-Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdR-e3wmnJXscqM5ncBeNw4uzB_F2hbRgHifA29_rkk3_WkDDAlnHD4Tnko1emnWKRaREoVP-6p_KqiKya2XSxEDVjQQnJrffR3M5gYcYq9Fn_438FJ6kBXzou3DEDSiB5f0sJrdBP-xJ/s640/Piri-Reis-world-map-mosaic-Canakkale-Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeiozCyXIsTVOmzOcDfEU28HjRHZvBtLaQ8rKisxYMsBYTxxdTCFIVOrpbwCNxeuz4fBJmV99xuw1udVZf17nldtRTgTDFTU75pB0esNBd43C-YAWKI9yuMgAdlfVJnWMq2lB0YF5ufpe/s1600/Canakkale-Turkey-harbor-sunset.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeiozCyXIsTVOmzOcDfEU28HjRHZvBtLaQ8rKisxYMsBYTxxdTCFIVOrpbwCNxeuz4fBJmV99xuw1udVZf17nldtRTgTDFTU75pB0esNBd43C-YAWKI9yuMgAdlfVJnWMq2lB0YF5ufpe/s640/Canakkale-Turkey-harbor-sunset.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
After sitting and enjoying the sunset, we wandered by the 1897-built clock tower at the other end of the harbor...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG79EzplH20KqaOs_oIyiWBfZa9Rj-J9-blauKlRmKHjhwFSb9A519ZHk_kQ4UNqFM5qYdHS3FqagEEXc795OTB_tHzuxI3b5R0m6KWAKbgzXddSAKaBOPaEoM-wGUQdWwlGKVM_JKg7Gf/s1600/Canakkale-clock-tower-dusk.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG79EzplH20KqaOs_oIyiWBfZa9Rj-J9-blauKlRmKHjhwFSb9A519ZHk_kQ4UNqFM5qYdHS3FqagEEXc795OTB_tHzuxI3b5R0m6KWAKbgzXddSAKaBOPaEoM-wGUQdWwlGKVM_JKg7Gf/s640/Canakkale-clock-tower-dusk.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
And we ended up finding the <a href="http://www.anzacsite.gov.au/2visiting/turkish_nusret.html">Nusret minelaying ship from World War I</a>. Cagatay was pretty excited (I'd only heard about it like a month before), but it turns out that the Nusret ship in Canakkale is only a replica of the 1915 ship (which I found out today). The Nusret was <a href="http://hubpages.com/hub/About-World-War-1-Gallipoli-Saved-By-Turkish-Minelayer-Nusret">a vital part of the Ottoman victory during the Gallipoli campaign</a>, halting the British and French from moving up the Dardanelles and forcing them to land on the Gallipoli peninsula.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYerKrR8tWJHetGMupRW99P2t901_xrVyXR4emuiHFU6DTp5GWQfgGEBvkx8kfus3GxeEKQ6oihmrxoLXzrKgafKJD4no5JoUecW-Umx1CXCqPqQjetPA1luTrlG9nnBg_PDXBl8ntMtqW/s1600/Nusret-replica-WWII-mine-ship-Canakkale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYerKrR8tWJHetGMupRW99P2t901_xrVyXR4emuiHFU6DTp5GWQfgGEBvkx8kfus3GxeEKQ6oihmrxoLXzrKgafKJD4no5JoUecW-Umx1CXCqPqQjetPA1luTrlG9nnBg_PDXBl8ntMtqW/s640/Nusret-replica-WWII-mine-ship-Canakkale.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
We ended our evening with food. We weren't terribly hungry, so first we sampled Canakkale's famous cheese dessert, peynir helvasi, at Husmenoglu. I've always been a little wary of Turkish desserts and their ingredients (cheese, really?), but this one was pretty awesome. (The photo is from Cagatay's Instagram feed -- <a href="http://instagram.com/p/bmGGR9S47k/">check him out</a>!)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29LDjiptOruauD6EwLw4RyyLC72EM26OFdt0csMGPo4dR8y9sLRFD0XsCG3vgK4pMfcPZVh_VzLNzMQZ4WbpkRpNDYZVV_7a5uFPhkN9DVv_WPSIER0Fw5vP1UMxurmit0dP6dQzQO_2E/s1600/Husmenoglu-Peynir-Helvasi-Canakkale-dessert-jagatai-Instagram.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi29LDjiptOruauD6EwLw4RyyLC72EM26OFdt0csMGPo4dR8y9sLRFD0XsCG3vgK4pMfcPZVh_VzLNzMQZ4WbpkRpNDYZVV_7a5uFPhkN9DVv_WPSIER0Fw5vP1UMxurmit0dP6dQzQO_2E/s640/Husmenoglu-Peynir-Helvasi-Canakkale-dessert-jagatai-Instagram.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Then we went to the nearby McDonalds for a snack and enjoyed the amazing view from the rooftop terrace. A McDonalds with a serene rooftop terrace...see, another one of Canakkale's pleasures-of-life thing. :)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHTfWNBPKnU6IaEQgphSUe6uZAjf89hNnfLpjoKhgdhDcjWfspch3XJscgRL-Sd9RZ2BjwEaxrRCkvHZpu80GGFQD97WR6x6CRfoLah2RUxJq9YOxxwrEakDrVBbydtafvw1LI09yY762i/s1600/Canakkale-Turkey-nighttime-McDonalds-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHTfWNBPKnU6IaEQgphSUe6uZAjf89hNnfLpjoKhgdhDcjWfspch3XJscgRL-Sd9RZ2BjwEaxrRCkvHZpu80GGFQD97WR6x6CRfoLah2RUxJq9YOxxwrEakDrVBbydtafvw1LI09yY762i/s640/Canakkale-Turkey-nighttime-McDonalds-view.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-51676886109363173042013-10-01T04:07:00.002+03:002013-10-01T04:07:55.127+03:00Visiting Gokceada<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj23xlN8STwz5JFBU26F4mDV7jY_jTRJ7BnUJ9ZB8EVGg4dKAdOWbVXcOQNbtf6cpzq3KSJ91VP7spw_09P5mX8JJoDjMdhSkFHtsf7aAHnFbB7EatlfV7o5zOjaHZyIixV2lb4Fb2eJCy9/s1600/Gokceada-bougainvilla.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj23xlN8STwz5JFBU26F4mDV7jY_jTRJ7BnUJ9ZB8EVGg4dKAdOWbVXcOQNbtf6cpzq3KSJ91VP7spw_09P5mX8JJoDjMdhSkFHtsf7aAHnFbB7EatlfV7o5zOjaHZyIixV2lb4Fb2eJCy9/s200/Gokceada-bougainvilla.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
After we moved out of our apartment at the end of June, we took a month-long trip around Turkey, and our first stop was the island of Gokceada. I'm not really sure why we decided to go, but my sister-in-law's husband's mother offered us her house, so off we went!<br />
<br />
There's not a lot to Gokceada, but it's a lovely little place to hang out for a week or so. The island -- formerly known as Imbros -- has been inhabited long enough to have been mentioned by Homer in the <i>Iliad</i>, but today, the main activities are hanging out at the beach, wandering around after a meal at one of the small restaurants, and checking out the local wildlife (mainly sheep). There may be other things to do on other parts of the island (like visit Turkey's westernmost point), but the bus only goes to four spots on the eastern side, so we weren't able to do a lot of exploring. (Plus, admittedly, it was really, really hot when we were there. We spent a lot of time in the shade.)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8U83GXoyoKaSA-40n6NBg07IguLkw5y2Aa3SPSmNLjCR_87wbPGtSXQ_0Nn9CW8P7vuCflYLm4La6ad_Y6qrrAqdkpSPdgoKAUsNyQ5dkdmrgj0psDBTkd2wXMBu7OgcTk16KXI4vfKgD/s1600/Gokceada-sheep-crossing-road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8U83GXoyoKaSA-40n6NBg07IguLkw5y2Aa3SPSmNLjCR_87wbPGtSXQ_0Nn9CW8P7vuCflYLm4La6ad_Y6qrrAqdkpSPdgoKAUsNyQ5dkdmrgj0psDBTkd2wXMBu7OgcTk16KXI4vfKgD/s640/Gokceada-sheep-crossing-road.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Our vacation there was pretty relaxed. Probably the highlight of the trip for me was the couple of evenings we spent on the balcony barbecuing on the mangal as the sun went down. It was Ramadan while we were there, and for the first time, I heard the cannon shot at sunset announcing the breaking of the day's fast. (In Istanbul, I never even knew it was supposed to happen -- did it happen? Is it too loud to hear it in the city? I'd also never known there was a <a href="http://www.theguardian.com/world/2011/aug/02/ramadan-drummer-istanbul-tradition">drummer who went around</a> alerting everyone to the pre-dawn meal, but we also heard that in Gokceada...at something like 4am. But I digress...)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJg0Sakdn16BbwTrqJBmxUjiOIt2r4gUACL3tTSVEWC2oy-qafxql6DU57nVTO08S3fcDXs0yoBWAjzTBjlat6LBWvmL8spv7Jex4bNlwn31B0xJx7NewAqf51f9INMZPzmkLPcrDOEkwM/s1600/Gokceada-mangal-barbeque-Tini-wine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJg0Sakdn16BbwTrqJBmxUjiOIt2r4gUACL3tTSVEWC2oy-qafxql6DU57nVTO08S3fcDXs0yoBWAjzTBjlat6LBWvmL8spv7Jex4bNlwn31B0xJx7NewAqf51f9INMZPzmkLPcrDOEkwM/s640/Gokceada-mangal-barbeque-Tini-wine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoYNHxADf6Obk4vCxoj5Yf8rmErHpzWXgDqCCs-OjBEY1xhL870UNKFsR2Svlvzq1SS6apkn6_96EyOko2IIrrHjd153c3FVtckG0OSkshzIspwDoIqIclqWF692Fyr8cyEI2oKbeBtUU/s1600/Gokceada-late-afternoon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoYNHxADf6Obk4vCxoj5Yf8rmErHpzWXgDqCCs-OjBEY1xhL870UNKFsR2Svlvzq1SS6apkn6_96EyOko2IIrrHjd153c3FVtckG0OSkshzIspwDoIqIclqWF692Fyr8cyEI2oKbeBtUU/s640/Gokceada-late-afternoon.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Toward the end of our week, we had dinner up above Kalekoy, at Yakamoz. I'd highly recommend it -- great food, great sunset views. Up to that point, we'd spent all of our evenings in Gokceada town, which is where the house was and which was always totally dead at night. Turns out, Kalekoy is hopping at night -- there was a small crafty market, live music and a TON of people walking around.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJEbRf0zBdOJmlQApYmrgr6vFB4phk-LO-dBzurafoCRep-to6BHxQlU6d88O7iukdRT8VNlw3ikdD4wujSESEJeqSSscW-nIgjmWs-UYRSYIr2vfLKsrgPV11VXX7SIRaoX3sZKTWnI_p/s1600/Gokceada-Kalekoy-Yakamoz-dinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJEbRf0zBdOJmlQApYmrgr6vFB4phk-LO-dBzurafoCRep-to6BHxQlU6d88O7iukdRT8VNlw3ikdD4wujSESEJeqSSscW-nIgjmWs-UYRSYIr2vfLKsrgPV11VXX7SIRaoX3sZKTWnI_p/s640/Gokceada-Kalekoy-Yakamoz-dinner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAQsUoMlYCH-hmpWZWM-LMiH8lJ0L-mX6gvN7ZslVoemPtejNnKcYdX0iPLKfJ-2mWKBZmvzBSyEwXZkssfJi0_K1zD5da5ZKN2gROmUNxlwCnKXlt1Upi2HSNRW3DRkryMhS5fTO9fS1/s1600/Gokceada-Kalekoy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAQsUoMlYCH-hmpWZWM-LMiH8lJ0L-mX6gvN7ZslVoemPtejNnKcYdX0iPLKfJ-2mWKBZmvzBSyEwXZkssfJi0_K1zD5da5ZKN2gROmUNxlwCnKXlt1Upi2HSNRW3DRkryMhS5fTO9fS1/s640/Gokceada-Kalekoy.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tMtumKJ-Enyrqmi7lHGFb1EYgXXYtqyaPJSD-TTrRzOY5TUKJLwBiKJw-G2QZ4gdk5HyXmRMxMf7fDvHPP7Sl1PtE93WrWW8eR6gAUJ6r_kgK-fkHdIfQvSfJ5XA1lglTXzlve1fw6pK/s1600/Gokceada-Kalekoy-Yakamoz-sunset-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tMtumKJ-Enyrqmi7lHGFb1EYgXXYtqyaPJSD-TTrRzOY5TUKJLwBiKJw-G2QZ4gdk5HyXmRMxMf7fDvHPP7Sl1PtE93WrWW8eR6gAUJ6r_kgK-fkHdIfQvSfJ5XA1lglTXzlve1fw6pK/s640/Gokceada-Kalekoy-Yakamoz-sunset-view.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
We also spent one day at Kefalos/Aydincik beach, which is popular with windsurfers and kite-surfers. The wind there was roaring and, surprisingly, there was sand on the beach, a very rare find in Turkey.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCKbcjdafn89H31VgdClTm6WsurPpFuClj69KKlq3fKyiB7kVPXhXaFBjZrBuyI9s338EbDwPUUtluXmD1yti14-yUQ35XJnqjJm3LubzNUliWHhqhQU1GJE0R5cK3ODm9DHgyHWv3cXX/s1600/Gokceada-Kefalos-Aydincik-beach-windsurf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDCKbcjdafn89H31VgdClTm6WsurPpFuClj69KKlq3fKyiB7kVPXhXaFBjZrBuyI9s338EbDwPUUtluXmD1yti14-yUQ35XJnqjJm3LubzNUliWHhqhQU1GJE0R5cK3ODm9DHgyHWv3cXX/s640/Gokceada-Kefalos-Aydincik-beach-windsurf.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhHk5Pa-AKClc5N0-f9BuU1zbHZj1-xt2263N0EO-aJk7_WNSgC0ezX_CP_PsIR4Ns0NMq8aavks7fByBLoudFyPyTG0kZ_MGNTIrodh6Dv9B4FYUKuqc6ghyphenhyphenwCfChaUzr9tked4keUGV/s1600/Gokceada-free-roaming-sheep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhHk5Pa-AKClc5N0-f9BuU1zbHZj1-xt2263N0EO-aJk7_WNSgC0ezX_CP_PsIR4Ns0NMq8aavks7fByBLoudFyPyTG0kZ_MGNTIrodh6Dv9B4FYUKuqc6ghyphenhyphenwCfChaUzr9tked4keUGV/s640/Gokceada-free-roaming-sheep.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
That's all for now...baaa-bye! :)<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-42538413097394062392013-10-01T02:43:00.000+03:002013-10-09T21:07:54.059+03:00Visiting Safranbolu<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMDYKMl1365zfFEGwUJ1fkXCRpOD3yGPFEERu8k9Tunu-EKFke-99IOyVngC9jMDvD9_20VGILlEdmVlUmSEo2L4UILffSjxvrtTWST0xHadMxL-eoqGDa2J5YS_b58i8KhaAiiotbtJg/s1600/Safranbolu-Turkey-Carsi-center-mosque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxMDYKMl1365zfFEGwUJ1fkXCRpOD3yGPFEERu8k9Tunu-EKFke-99IOyVngC9jMDvD9_20VGILlEdmVlUmSEo2L4UILffSjxvrtTWST0xHadMxL-eoqGDa2J5YS_b58i8KhaAiiotbtJg/s320/Safranbolu-Turkey-Carsi-center-mosque.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Why, hello there! It's me again, and I thought I'd share some long-overdue photos from the summer...<br />
<br />
All the way back in June, we spent nearly a week in the Turkish capital of Ankara, with a fabulous overnight in Safranbolu, a UNESCO World Heritage site. I was a little unsure whether I'd like Safranbolu -- there's not a lot to do but admire the exterior of the restored historic houses -- but it was absolutely charming, a wonderfully laid-back afternoon and evening. I'm not much of a foodie, but omg, we also ate the single greatest meal I've had in Turkey, an amazing baked rice-cheese-pine nut appetizer and kofte in a tomato sauce, and when I can figure out the name of the restaurant, I will add it here. :) [Update: The restaurant was Kadioglu Sehzade Sofrasi, and it's just to the right of where the top photo was taken.]<br />
<br />
We stayed at Selvili Kosk, a restored Ottoman house in the historic quarter of Carsi. The place was nearly empty (probably because Safranbolu was nearly empty mid-week) and it felt like we had the whole house to ourselves -- and we had an amazing bedroom upstairs, with high ceilings and the traditional closet bathroom, with the toilet in one cupboard and a (modern) shower in the other.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMY5GBBeLmxdSYmbcNtOUojIdlLQF86i5YQMznkIc_QkM1E00kYPD7MkqVnr0Pah13U2el-ubKzCTOZamBF6KzHfYPJWFGUFcZYXvcT5mgdhUy5wdvTCypbS44TGJQewnSSZWIXBnc4Rm/s1600/Selvili-Kosk-Safranbolu-traditional-closet-bathroom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMY5GBBeLmxdSYmbcNtOUojIdlLQF86i5YQMznkIc_QkM1E00kYPD7MkqVnr0Pah13U2el-ubKzCTOZamBF6KzHfYPJWFGUFcZYXvcT5mgdhUy5wdvTCypbS44TGJQewnSSZWIXBnc4Rm/s640/Selvili-Kosk-Safranbolu-traditional-closet-bathroom.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Safranbolu has a couple of museums to visit, but the only one we went into was Kaymakamlar Muze Evi, another restored house, but this one complete with mannequins. It was interesting enough for 20 minutes, but I mention it because of the photo below, that of the whirling closet. According to the sign, it was used by the ladies of the house, who were segregated in times past, to serve food and drink to foreign visitors without being seen.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElhRhhIteGlMXIV0cVttqfx08CxcftIArvbv1qH0Dhe0gkFAyEVKvgtN1c8oxy0_gHuWYdKarPRWAQjJ78ivCXVS-_6VV1rpvglfyHIbng9aw4rnWBe5-p8_U7JButEeJE3QR-zLG2UIJ/s1600/Kaymakamlar-Muze-Evi-whirling-closet-Safranbolu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhElhRhhIteGlMXIV0cVttqfx08CxcftIArvbv1qH0Dhe0gkFAyEVKvgtN1c8oxy0_gHuWYdKarPRWAQjJ78ivCXVS-_6VV1rpvglfyHIbng9aw4rnWBe5-p8_U7JButEeJE3QR-zLG2UIJ/s400/Kaymakamlar-Muze-Evi-whirling-closet-Safranbolu.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
But for the most part, we just wandered around Safranbolu enjoying the ambiance. It was just exceptionally lovely.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz04EBhBujtSsrNu5hCmpGMvgEkATQOSmLoXY5CI746yyogySFXCpbTpz5xrH1fWp6IEl5O2W4lq5Y9rmETraCyytrTkioZnWMBWMK8qf3BiBODQS7DyByr45PeBly__5ZWRK8ADmkDViN/s1600/Safranbolu-Turkey-drain-cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz04EBhBujtSsrNu5hCmpGMvgEkATQOSmLoXY5CI746yyogySFXCpbTpz5xrH1fWp6IEl5O2W4lq5Y9rmETraCyytrTkioZnWMBWMK8qf3BiBODQS7DyByr45PeBly__5ZWRK8ADmkDViN/s640/Safranbolu-Turkey-drain-cover.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQrvqvAhUupHmZnt-X2HGCKLoBz6ULBIBfzEcsxWfVclYKlSM749Ax9CyMS9Y6GMZogZE_kiwxkzlX4_wgs9-iRNwuf7tQc-dEVWJz3euaIO98Kqqw43TM8M7dYWSJ6GtpMAgpx0gVLKc/s1600/Safranbolu-Turkey-street.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnQrvqvAhUupHmZnt-X2HGCKLoBz6ULBIBfzEcsxWfVclYKlSM749Ax9CyMS9Y6GMZogZE_kiwxkzlX4_wgs9-iRNwuf7tQc-dEVWJz3euaIO98Kqqw43TM8M7dYWSJ6GtpMAgpx0gVLKc/s640/Safranbolu-Turkey-street.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkerervzJHSVb68B0MhgYukmnXTaIxpqBQcgD4fuTEheCODqLcglxk_wPKmd8nMfJCojSWrZjAY735gpogu1kC4orICSqx34hmaMEesOyF6N1ahkMmMHTJPc9RMShAG-M9cCtZ19p6ZMyU/s1600/Safranbolu-Turkey-vista.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkerervzJHSVb68B0MhgYukmnXTaIxpqBQcgD4fuTEheCODqLcglxk_wPKmd8nMfJCojSWrZjAY735gpogu1kC4orICSqx34hmaMEesOyF6N1ahkMmMHTJPc9RMShAG-M9cCtZ19p6ZMyU/s640/Safranbolu-Turkey-vista.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxs77mZ27FGKyKhNfaTFTVD8jsctnRwyTbTYFKQr3nAheIIwHlBf7v77ybGLY0DU9gW5SmunN1sNDIiR82KO-4SK-y9ZzK7CNI_CtynMdzY2My8DOXu3ovBD3_JhRrHqxDO8zw3BMQmfd/s1600/Safranbolu-Turkey-view.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibxs77mZ27FGKyKhNfaTFTVD8jsctnRwyTbTYFKQr3nAheIIwHlBf7v77ybGLY0DU9gW5SmunN1sNDIiR82KO-4SK-y9ZzK7CNI_CtynMdzY2My8DOXu3ovBD3_JhRrHqxDO8zw3BMQmfd/s400/Safranbolu-Turkey-view.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPQ_Ed38Ka2xRlHBV4gdFgFviEoWyCFz7T7k3_5cyOjc2Mxz19qZo0IzLE1Chw6Opj80xf9vOtDUsu3EhGuC5e1C-k708eVy15iiZAvDaIIeODbW_1rf6rtRKUVUnH6RX5EPP4jTgTuQD/s1600/Turkish-coffee-Safranbolu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPQ_Ed38Ka2xRlHBV4gdFgFviEoWyCFz7T7k3_5cyOjc2Mxz19qZo0IzLE1Chw6Opj80xf9vOtDUsu3EhGuC5e1C-k708eVy15iiZAvDaIIeODbW_1rf6rtRKUVUnH6RX5EPP4jTgTuQD/s400/Turkish-coffee-Safranbolu.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1L87pfn5r080xkEVxsxpyH3cOT9sDMOpIOMCxCLkCRphvWJ0qds4IX-M4s6cFzd3fNRhyNV0wzWFDJM26DJHjzyDAXuW3NarB33eLZqKYBmMEaKrZQ9amWVe4VzBvCmCm8Ro8Ux5zAw9/s1600/Safranbolu-Turkey-at-night.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ1L87pfn5r080xkEVxsxpyH3cOT9sDMOpIOMCxCLkCRphvWJ0qds4IX-M4s6cFzd3fNRhyNV0wzWFDJM26DJHjzyDAXuW3NarB33eLZqKYBmMEaKrZQ9amWVe4VzBvCmCm8Ro8Ux5zAw9/s640/Safranbolu-Turkey-at-night.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-39383481611582440292013-07-14T18:26:00.003+03:002013-10-01T02:49:50.646+03:00What's Happening with Gezi Park Now?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtc1C42KQ3iG2ndgWsWkGMTXntNrXI9ycEWj09QKwLRtsbDGe6zlYboxfFTL16Qdq48Hb4poyRBkZjcE7rmBCcJxNrCO3uVFhL9uTFCVZymt9a4TpaDtJJq-Eg4_BQtNSYPI7qH9abCMY/s1600/Gezi+Park+replanting+Istanbul+June+3,+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPtc1C42KQ3iG2ndgWsWkGMTXntNrXI9ycEWj09QKwLRtsbDGe6zlYboxfFTL16Qdq48Hb4poyRBkZjcE7rmBCcJxNrCO3uVFhL9uTFCVZymt9a4TpaDtJJq-Eg4_BQtNSYPI7qH9abCMY/s320/Gezi+Park+replanting+Istanbul+June+3,+2013.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Hello friends! It’s been awhile since I’ve blogged, and
that’s because the last six weeks have been a flurry of activity – we spent a
week in Ankara wrapping up my hubby’s green-card application and when we
returned to Istanbul, it was time to sell our furniture and pack our things in
preparation for a June 1 move-out date. Since then, we’ve been traveling around
Turkey, visiting various relatives, and Internet in some places has been scarce.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
So it’s a little late, but I wanted to talk about Gezi
Park again. The international media has moved on to Egypt (a coup being
ironically a godsend for Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan) and the national television media from
the beginning has barely covered the protests, so admittedly, it’s been a
little hard to know what’s going on. Now that we’re not in Istanbul, it’s like
the whole thing never happened – aside from the occasional graffiti, there are no
signs that anything in this country is amiss. It’s just…weird.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
The biggest development in recent days is that <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/istanbuls-gezi-park-reopened-protesters-set-to-return.aspx?pageID=238&nid=50252">Gezi Park was reopened to the public</a>. I believe it is generally open now, though we have not been in Istanbul since before then, so I can't be sure. On our last day in the city, we passed by Taksim Square and could see
construction workers busily beautifying the park. Word is that the municipality
planted flowers and trees, but the biggest change that I could see (from the outside
– no one was allowed in at that point) was that they created a grassy slope on
one side, a definite improvement giving better access to Gezi Park. </div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtOuO8FdTqYG9zltIh7yRD4qQP5jJtWjjZEnm4Q4_01NFkOohsVUYko1NHMdcsM7w6hRPhOp7u6ut1Am7_DeHDfxCu2lZFwRZTUgaX_OjqU9YhLq8v2V3_1I41HYgcYNm8uxlqIXh_8qDm/s1600/Gezi+Park+reconstruction+replanting+June+3,+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtOuO8FdTqYG9zltIh7yRD4qQP5jJtWjjZEnm4Q4_01NFkOohsVUYko1NHMdcsM7w6hRPhOp7u6ut1Am7_DeHDfxCu2lZFwRZTUgaX_OjqU9YhLq8v2V3_1I41HYgcYNm8uxlqIXh_8qDm/s640/Gezi+Park+reconstruction+replanting+June+3,+2013.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
But it’s also
very weird – there’s that word again. I mean, the prime minister wanted
(wants?) to rebuild these old military barracks on the site and not once has he,
arguably the sole holder of any real power in this country, acknowledged the
validity of the protesters’ concerns. In fact, he continues to lecture on how
very wrong everyone else has been. And thus, the government chose to improve
the park? I almost feel like I’m living in <i>Alice in Wonderland</i> – it’s hard to
explain, but it’s like they’re trying to confuse the issue, acting as if they
always meant to improve the park, and the protests were just these little anarchistic
acts perpetrated by marginal groups. But I was there, and that’s not what
happened. <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/25-million-people-attended-gezi-protests-across-turkey-interior-ministry-.aspx?pageID=238&nid=49292">An estimated 2.5 million people across Turkey</a>, in something like 80
cities, came out in support of the Gezi Park protests, and they came out
despite the tear gas and water cannons and police blockades. They’ve been
ordinary people, and they weren’t <a href="http://www.al-monitor.com/pulse/originals/2013/06/erdogan-rally-istanbul-gezi-protests-turkey.html">bused in/fed/coerced to show up as was seen with the AKP’s recent rallies</a>.</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Things had seemingly settled down at the end of May,
after the police cleared the park and surrounding area. As I mentioned before,
<a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/06/whats-happening-in-turkey.html">everyone felt really angry, but without being able to gather in Taksim, the protests seemed to lose steam</a>. There was never one group organizing the
protests, so there was no one to re-organize the protests. I was in Taksim at
the end of May, on two subsequent days, and there wasn’t a lot going on. The
first night, June 25, the police had physically ringed the monument and Taksim
Square, presumably to block people from putting up banners on the monument and
from continuing the Standing Man protests in the square. The friend I was with that night wrote an interesting column <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/blogNewsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=318666&columnistId=147">about how protests like this force the police into "dilemma actions" -- in other words, into absurdity</a>.</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49j3lFLKOy3LPLoF_jfEMYnmdqk6l2cZKqcHFf7PHDZ0fJDUVr8jdVR8GlxYJzSkGPyxyrXfIvtnjAsa-YqouZnwPz9Jnu1GlP-KksOE_gHGykOTmYo_WqbgADwtBrXPmv0UbyRgM1PGN/s1600/Taksim+monument+police+Istanbul+Gezi+Park+protests+June+25+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49j3lFLKOy3LPLoF_jfEMYnmdqk6l2cZKqcHFf7PHDZ0fJDUVr8jdVR8GlxYJzSkGPyxyrXfIvtnjAsa-YqouZnwPz9Jnu1GlP-KksOE_gHGykOTmYo_WqbgADwtBrXPmv0UbyRgM1PGN/s640/Taksim+monument+police+Istanbul+Gezi+Park+protests+June+25+2013.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
But other than that,
people were going about their business; there had been a march an hour or so
earlier, and some of the marchers were hanging around, but that was it.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTXsoGWnOIkASJD5fnip2jyHuVlnlGClj0uJ8JcrXeNtXDmgfqtj_BoA7nmrv_GFaabe5v0snMqlbxvhfztmabl2x2Bi5TXY0p3FK6l1c_ykXMC2-M6dwsTJZ89hM-NnS74v4kqfaJE4A/s1600/Police+ring+Taksim+Square+Gezi+Park+June+25+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTXsoGWnOIkASJD5fnip2jyHuVlnlGClj0uJ8JcrXeNtXDmgfqtj_BoA7nmrv_GFaabe5v0snMqlbxvhfztmabl2x2Bi5TXY0p3FK6l1c_ykXMC2-M6dwsTJZ89hM-NnS74v4kqfaJE4A/s640/Police+ring+Taksim+Square+Gezi+Park+June+25+2013.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The
next day, I was there in the afternoon, and although there was still a large
police presence, nothing was happening. The only form of protest I could see
was a few “standing men” at the end of the square, looking up at the large
portrait of Ataturk hanging down from the cultural center.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-iuxxuHvtDyqg6DQ7nAeJRz5bmxFpBAEw0A7hWPXFrr04KWnjX30r_PI0opfqt9ZQ0_qsFfP_L6ZDE7dBoxkewStHt3RSBoeTMjY69D8TZeYmx18aoael4CRxXVYjED6gqRjoKGYkvE9v/s1600/Standing+Man+protest+AKM+Taksim+June+26+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-iuxxuHvtDyqg6DQ7nAeJRz5bmxFpBAEw0A7hWPXFrr04KWnjX30r_PI0opfqt9ZQ0_qsFfP_L6ZDE7dBoxkewStHt3RSBoeTMjY69D8TZeYmx18aoael4CRxXVYjED6gqRjoKGYkvE9v/s400/Standing+Man+protest+AKM+Taksim+June+26+2013.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<o:p> </o:p>But from what I can tell on Facebook – my biggest news
source on Gezi Park – people have regrouped, and there have been protests every
day for at least the last week, if not longer. And the police have responded with
tear gas and water cannons. The Istanbul Tear Gas Festival continues! Last night's protest apparently stemmed from a midnight bill (ahh, another midnight bill) passed by parliament "<a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/police-fire-water-cannons-to-quell-protest-as-baton-wielding-shop-owners-threaten-reporters-in-istanbul.aspx?PageID=238&NID=50639&NewsCatID=341">which curbed the supervision of the Chamber of Architects and Engineers (TMMOB) in all urban projects, giving full authority to the Environment and Urban Planning Ministry</a>," according to one of the local papers. There was also a protest two nights ago in the southeastern city of Hatay as <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/police-strike-people-protesting-death-of-19-year-old-gezi-protester-in-southern-turkey.aspx?pageID=238&nid=50555&NewsCatID=341">an estimated 3,000 people gathered there to commemorate 19-year-old Ali İsmail Korkmaz</a>, one of the reported five to have died in
the protests. He was beaten by unknown assailants in Eskisehir and later sent
home by a doctor – the next morning, he was unable to speak, and he passed away
after being in a coma for 33 days. The <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/police-denies-role-in-missing-footage-of-attack-on-gezi-protester.aspx?pageID=238&nID=50591&NewsCatID=341">footage of the attack has apparently disappeared</a>. And as with all of the public gatherings for those
who have died in the protests, the police responded with the usual force, refusing to allow people to express their grief and commemorate the dead.</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
The <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/macheted-democracy-in-turkey-.aspx?pageID=238&nid=50567&NewsCatID=469">story of Ali Korkmaz</a> brings up one of the most
disturbing things about the Gezi Park protests, and that is the violence that has been perpetrated against the protesters, or anyone seen as not supporting the AKP. The <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/pm-erdogan-repeats-previously-denied-reports-of-protesters-entering-mosque-with-shoes-on-.aspx?pageID=238&nid=48520">horrible stories spread around by government officials</a> of protesters <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/istanbul-governor-says-he-didnt-see-any-video-of-attack-on-woman-by-gezi-protesters.aspx?pageID=238&nID=50564&NewsCatID=341">assaulting women in headscarves</a>, cavorting in a mosque with alcohol or violently attacking the police have mostly been proven untrue. Protesters have thrown rocks, certainly, but it hasn't been proven that they were <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/molotov-throwing-protesters-in-taksim-not-our-members-says-socialist-party-.aspx?pageID=238&nid=48593">the wielders of Molotov cocktails</a>, and anyway, most people believe those men were undercover police. But acts of violence against protesters? The tear gas and water cannons are one thing, but <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com//news-320660-machete-attacks-raise-fears-over-widespread-violence.html">protesters are also being physically attacked by those who don't support the cause</a>. I have read about some awful things, none of which have been disproved. In my last post, I mentioned how participants in <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/opposition-deputy-confirms-attack-on-istanbul-park-forum-voices-concern.aspx?pageID=238&nid=49202&NewsCatID=341">a Gezi Park group meeting in a park were attacked</a>, and the attack was allegedly led by the neighborhood's headman. Last night, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/police-fire-water-cannons-to-quell-protest-as-baton-wielding-shop-owners-threaten-reporters-in-istanbul.aspx?PageID=238&NID=50639&NewsCatID=341">shop owners threatened protesters with wood batons</a>. My friend has told me of watching from her window protesters being attacked with rocks. I also read the story of a friend's friend on Facebook -- a less reputable source, of course -- who attended a press event for another urban project as an accredited journalist, was harassed by the project's supporters, and then had her press pass circulated on Twitter with the allegation that she is a foreign spy. There's also video footage of <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pebyI9Ae3DY">a man chasing people with a machete</a> and then kicking a woman -- but the police ultimately let him go, and he fled to Morocco.</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/pebyI9Ae3DY?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
What the hell is going on here? And where is the international media? As usual, stay tuned...I still can't say where this is all going.<br />
<br /></div>
Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-67135136575229901532013-06-21T18:26:00.003+03:002013-06-21T18:26:51.908+03:00What's Happening in Turkey?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXDGDBVUu6Y4BCTX6MjYZb7bg2d1kpjavsEKed3HE4H35YToeeeVuJGD2dN1J3hkVGwqV14wnCPJnBUWIK8GBYEz0o9UHdHMLnlg_7vLndTNfO1wLgKbJikm0NBIulQFC7sEhlJO6F7V8/s1600/Peace+sign+graffiti+Kulugu+Park+Ankara+Gezi+protests.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcXDGDBVUu6Y4BCTX6MjYZb7bg2d1kpjavsEKed3HE4H35YToeeeVuJGD2dN1J3hkVGwqV14wnCPJnBUWIK8GBYEz0o9UHdHMLnlg_7vLndTNfO1wLgKbJikm0NBIulQFC7sEhlJO6F7V8/s400/Peace+sign+graffiti+Kulugu+Park+Ankara+Gezi+protests.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
So, it turns out that I haven't written a blog post, on Gezi Park or anything else, in just over two weeks. I'm not quite sure how that happened -- I suppose I could say that we've just returned from a five-day trip to Ankara and we're moving out of our apartment in nine days, but that would be an excuse. If I'm being honest with myself, the real reason is that I just feel so disappointed with everything that's been happening in Turkey. I could spend hours analyzing the prime minister's divisive rhetoric or the government's lies (and don't be fooled, they are lying), but I got to a point where I felt like, <i>Why bother</i>? And then it just seemed silly to blog about other, mundane things. If nothing else, the protests in Turkey have been all-consuming; I swear, it's all anybody can talk or think about.<br />
<br />
At the same time, there's been a disturbing lack of information about what's been happening in Turkey's cities. While the domestic TV news channels are now reporting on the various protests and everything related to them, the footage usually covers what happened about 18 to 24 hours before. It's been really hard to get a handle on what's happening at the moment, and even Twitter and Facebook doesn't always provide the answers. It turns out that there's something very disorienting about living in a city and not actually knowing what's going on there.<br />
<br />
To be honest, I'm not sure where the Gezi Park protests are headed next. The issue of the park's development, which is what sparked this whole thing, has been more or less resolved -- a court has suspended the building project and should the government win on appeal, they have <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/Default.aspx?pageID=238&nID=48789&NewsCatID=338">pledged to hold a referendum to determine Gezi Park's future</a>. And while <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/istanbul-to-vote-for-gezi-park-if-court-gives.aspx?pageID=238&nid=49116&NewsCatID=341">not everyone believes that the government intends to fairly follow this outlined process</a>, there's nothing more to be done about the park right now. So technically, the protests should be over, but the protests are no longer just about Gezi Park.<br />
<br />
I actually thought the whole thing was over after <a href="http://www.vancouversun.com/news/Turkey+Taksim+Square+cleared+protesters+after+Erdogan+warning/8531515/story.html">the police surprised the protesters with an attack in Taksim Square on Saturday</a>. People were angry, certainly, but this time, the police took a much stronger stand in keeping protesters out of the park and square, and that action -- combined with <a href="http://worldnews.nbcnews.com/_news/2013/06/16/18986278-tear-gas-fired-inside-hotel-in-turkey-protest-crackdown?lite">later throwing tear gas into nearby hotels</a> -- seemed like the final blow. But I was wrong -- the protesters have not given up. The <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-22962526">"standing man" protes</a>t -- where one <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/blogNewsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=318666&columnistId=147">just stands silently in a quiet act of civil disobedience</a> -- has caught on, and groups of people have begun meeting in parks around the city to discuss their next steps.<br />
<br />
I sincerely hope that the protesters do not give up. I have stopped deliberately going out to protest areas as I fully believe that this is a Turkish issue that has to be solved by the Turkish people, and my presence as a foreigner is irrelevant. (It may even be harmful, considering that the government has partially blamed the demonstrations on foreign agents.) But if the Turks stop protesting, I believe that the situation here will be worse than before, and that instead of expanding civil engagement, the Gezi Park protests will have resulted in Turkey becoming a more repressive country. And that thought just makes me really, really sad. People have died for this.<br />
<br />
Yes, Gezi Park has seemingly been saved. But what is being lost? Even more <a href="http://descrier.co.uk/world/2013/06/turkey-arrest-of-lawyers-journalists-and-doctors-shows-erdogans-true-colours/">journalists have been arrested</a>, the few TV channels that showed the initial protests have been fined for "<a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/tv-watchdog-fines-live-streaming-of-gezi-protests-for-harming-development-of-children-youth-.aspx?pageID=238&nID=48655&NewsCatID=341">harming the physical, moral and mental development of children and young people</a>," the <a href="http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/articles/479128/20130615/turkey-protests-doctors-investigate-tbb.htm">Health Ministry wants to investigate the doctors who helped the wounded</a>, <a href="http://rt.com/news/turkish-police-lawyers-courthouse-534/">lawyers have been detained</a>, and there are reports that <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/government-working-on-draft-to-restrict-social-media-in-turkey.aspx?pageID=238&nID=48982&NewsCatID=338">the government is drafting some kind of bill on the use of social media</a> (although the govt is saying now that<a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/dont-confuse-us-with-china-says-ruling-akp-spokesperson-over-draft-bill-on-social-media.aspx?pageID=238&nID=49067&NewsCatID=338"> the bill will only affect "crimes over the Internet,"</a> whatever that actually means). Various AKP ministers have also said that <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/turkish-prime-minister-vows-to-increase-police-force.aspx?pageID=238&nID=49006&NewsCatID=338">the government plans to strengthen the power of the police force</a> and <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/army-may-step-in-to-stop-protests-if-need-be-deputy-pm-arinc.aspx?pageID=238&nID=48946&NewsCatID=338">will bring out the military if necessary</a>. With this kind of rhetoric, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/opposition-deputy-confirms-attack-on-istanbul-park-forum-voices-concern.aspx?pageID=238&nid=49202&NewsCatID=341">is it that much of a surprise that a group peacefully meeting in one of Istanbul's parks was violently attacked (by civilians of a different political viewpoint) last night</a>? Instead of offering conciliatory messages, the government has instead decided to display its strength, and I think it's fair to say that they have no intention of backing down on their general policies. Half the country apparently agrees with them, and half don't. So the question becomes, what will the other 50 percent do? As we near the end of week four of the Gezi Park protests, I still think the answer is that only time will tell.<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-78973934622793555412013-06-06T19:31:00.003+03:002013-06-06T19:35:31.988+03:00A Walk Around Taksim Square<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmdMAyVMbcsKJBOa8mpn34aDbytKcem1Qt6r1HTHNFRGxwNYwIDhloQKrdQAj4c8WamY4uDzJSxtEyZfHUrRA_gajOoGjaB2V1npi-UkBOds-csF_ceT8W8sFUury04FWN4t6DWrpc0fU/s1600/Taksim+Square+protests+June+5+2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmdMAyVMbcsKJBOa8mpn34aDbytKcem1Qt6r1HTHNFRGxwNYwIDhloQKrdQAj4c8WamY4uDzJSxtEyZfHUrRA_gajOoGjaB2V1npi-UkBOds-csF_ceT8W8sFUury04FWN4t6DWrpc0fU/s320/Taksim+Square+protests+June+5+2013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Yesterday, we went down to Taksim Square and Gezi Park to check out what was going on. While it's a little harder for me to keep up with events considering my Turkish is only intermediate, I think it's fair to say that if you judged the situation here just by the news, you'd think that the protests were over and everything had returned completely back to normal. But as we saw yesterday, that is definitely not the case... The violence has ended, at least in Istanbul, but the large-scale protests continue.<br />
<br />
Part of the reason for this, in my opinion, is that the government has not backed down an inch. What they are thinking, I cannot say, but it's undeniable that the protests became what they are because of the police response and the government's aggressive and dismissive statements about the protesters and their motives. So far, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/over-4000-injured-two-dead-in-turkeys-nationwide-protests-association.aspx?pageID=238&nid=48249">three people have been killed and over 4,000 injured</a>. The protesters come from all walks of Turkish life, but government officials <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/the-battle-of-taksim-and-beyond.aspx?pageID=238&nid=48216">have called them drunks, "looters, marginal and members of illegal organizations" and "foreign enemies who envy Turkey."</a> While President Gul and deputy prime minister Bulent Arinc have made <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/newsDetail_getNewsById.action;jsessionid=DFB55812945E61F6CE83ED3226429456?newsId=317254&columnistId=0">conciliatory statements</a> in recent days -- Arinc said two days ago that <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/news-317334-deputy-pm-apologizes-for-excessive-force-used-against-peaceful-protesters.html">he would meet with members of the Taksim Platform (the group originally campaigning to save the park) and suggested that a referendum might be held</a> -- the prime minister went on a diplomatic trip to North Africa, which many people saw as a sign that he didn't consider the issue worthy of his attention or time. Throughout it all and as recently as today, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/turkish-pm-claims-us-embassy-attackers-are-behind-gezi-protests.aspx?pageID=238&nID=48337&NewsCatID=338">the prime minister has insisted that the Topcu Barracks will be rebuit in Gezi Park</a>; a few days ago, he also added that<a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/Default.aspx?PageID=238&NID=48035&NewsCatID=338"> they would be building a mosque in another part of Taksim Square</a>. "'A mosque will be built in Taksim,' said Erdogan adding that he did not have to receive permission from the main opposition leader or a 'few marauders' for the projects," <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/Default.aspx?PageID=238&NID=48035&NewsCatID=338">according to a recent newspaper report</a>. Even though <a href="http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2013-06-06/turkish-bonds-slump-while-lira-climbs-as-central-bank-tightens.html">the Turkish stock market and the Turkish lira have taken a hit</a>, I think it's fair to say the message has not gotten through. :(<br />
<br />
So, no surprise, people are still out at Taksim and in Gezi Park "occupying."<br />
<br />
We first walked down Istiklal Street to check out the graffiti and damage. There were a number of store windows broken, and almost all of the ATM machines we saw had been destroyed.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvm37lM78G7w1P6hm8UJPtsliiWObnSPq1S2sNx92IbgZeQZP2sd475e0W2Bg7IS8uOWUImkgfT1fskmKcaA76s-twv1zNTC1sudsykDKH1XK8Puzdk9s3DtVdQOBvR79_oR_h1CdZzZu3/s1600/Akbank+Sanat+vandalism+Taksim+protests+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvm37lM78G7w1P6hm8UJPtsliiWObnSPq1S2sNx92IbgZeQZP2sd475e0W2Bg7IS8uOWUImkgfT1fskmKcaA76s-twv1zNTC1sudsykDKH1XK8Puzdk9s3DtVdQOBvR79_oR_h1CdZzZu3/s640/Akbank+Sanat+vandalism+Taksim+protests+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvp6F14WOcI9IkNFO-UtcFRfAjIUHnW86p4IeM_KTCDnxZrWrk_4IVDdL2vsX2-875XtQTiCrGaIy7wroL_G4v8qNXHIXgU-hB4O70djQANqUIo-xRGeBrEwgHRNd0028T3Ro6sKz0jzk/s1600/ATM+damage+Taksim+Istiklal+Gezi+Park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvp6F14WOcI9IkNFO-UtcFRfAjIUHnW86p4IeM_KTCDnxZrWrk_4IVDdL2vsX2-875XtQTiCrGaIy7wroL_G4v8qNXHIXgU-hB4O70djQANqUIo-xRGeBrEwgHRNd0028T3Ro6sKz0jzk/s640/ATM+damage+Taksim+Istiklal+Gezi+Park.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
There was also a TON of graffiti. Some of it was quite funny -- in the photo below, the one to the right that shows part of a red ATM machine, the top piece of graffiti reads, "We will find you, Joffrey the blond! The brave ones are on their way from Winterfell," for all you <i>Game of Thrones</i> fans.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOz9k7Llq1yelWjVuWYdFCHJylmzTV3y6drOhwzdXlR3ltClRPn8G2-a8j3aik2PHWjh1TtHk2LxP8Yh573bTjGmCzPvIIgLqy8j7q31ntiEvIgBAdbYVBrZVOaFpra_B4x1puBdwevE8u/s1600/Taksim+Istiklal+graffiti+Game+of+Thrones.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOz9k7Llq1yelWjVuWYdFCHJylmzTV3y6drOhwzdXlR3ltClRPn8G2-a8j3aik2PHWjh1TtHk2LxP8Yh573bTjGmCzPvIIgLqy8j7q31ntiEvIgBAdbYVBrZVOaFpra_B4x1puBdwevE8u/s400/Taksim+Istiklal+graffiti+Game+of+Thrones.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7DSlC9-BNkdDxGvB32NPyd-OjoBr6A1hCsZiRA0aHHcvk27dYsWiqye_CIs8_xA5L7rlHCLGTVD_bQhW9ZfvURrxsI9VB62Y5_DCcZ6aOvU7-ItArBXLLW1iLIFYmh9gWP0pC8HpZblU/s1600/Gezi+Park+graffiti+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH7DSlC9-BNkdDxGvB32NPyd-OjoBr6A1hCsZiRA0aHHcvk27dYsWiqye_CIs8_xA5L7rlHCLGTVD_bQhW9ZfvURrxsI9VB62Y5_DCcZ6aOvU7-ItArBXLLW1iLIFYmh9gWP0pC8HpZblU/s400/Gezi+Park+graffiti+6-5-13.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlWMmqk_jqpwK5BzKiO9NRqjgWA248g80WtnqSdZxFTtzHN98khhu0to7W7c6WgqAr0vgeouUQSOpzM5AE0F1UyigDbEvQ_Gruzhiai97hl4ijCunhMsvLwuf5MVh9Lxltvu0koKLOP_D/s1600/Taksim+Gezi+Park+graffiti+Erdogan+as+Joker.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlWMmqk_jqpwK5BzKiO9NRqjgWA248g80WtnqSdZxFTtzHN98khhu0to7W7c6WgqAr0vgeouUQSOpzM5AE0F1UyigDbEvQ_Gruzhiai97hl4ijCunhMsvLwuf5MVh9Lxltvu0koKLOP_D/s640/Taksim+Gezi+Park+graffiti+Erdogan+as+Joker.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-K40-Voom8Cv-zb-OtK9Ag8GBxXZzLPFwj8OGC79oSE3Htrr_K1k4eFQRP_IkqPsl0ec48kAiCeefEGiepeiqD1YujSFA8PxrjBD_EEYayDz5wiV6vDxlYz6_7XSs2GfMbqpejYsyD_v/s1600/Taksim+Istiklal+graffiti+Erdogan+penguins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV-K40-Voom8Cv-zb-OtK9Ag8GBxXZzLPFwj8OGC79oSE3Htrr_K1k4eFQRP_IkqPsl0ec48kAiCeefEGiepeiqD1YujSFA8PxrjBD_EEYayDz5wiV6vDxlYz6_7XSs2GfMbqpejYsyD_v/s640/Taksim+Istiklal+graffiti+Erdogan+penguins.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0jhjg7OmQRxpL5f-hjYB6auOC-CpOCbqFA4Ct3QJC7ppG_pbH2tZMvD48FeRnlC_TyxBv4_z3GanKBiemEp482xQ9dVoO-N0sUriVsuQRCe_tlV6zSF6P41cFOEBE8zwqHJu7OYFZ9kx/s1600/Vakif+Bank+graffiti+Taksim+Square+Gezi+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR0jhjg7OmQRxpL5f-hjYB6auOC-CpOCbqFA4Ct3QJC7ppG_pbH2tZMvD48FeRnlC_TyxBv4_z3GanKBiemEp482xQ9dVoO-N0sUriVsuQRCe_tlV6zSF6P41cFOEBE8zwqHJu7OYFZ9kx/s640/Vakif+Bank+graffiti+Taksim+Square+Gezi+6-5-13.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
The graffiti showing the man's face portrays Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan in a variety of poses. "Kimyasal Tayyip" means "Chemical Tayyip." I assume the penguins are there because over the weekend, CNN Turkey aired a documentary on penguins instead of covering the violent clashes between the protesters and the police, and the penguins have become a bit of <a href="http://www.businessweek.com/news/2013-06-05/penguins-not-protests-on-turkish-tv-fuel-anger-against-media">a symbol of the local news media's lack of coverage here</a> (which is a whole other story).<br />
<br />
There had also been <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/more-unions-to-join-in-general-strike-amid-turkey-unrest.aspx?pageID=238&nid=48197">a multi-day public sector strike</a> going on, and while we were there, we saw a number of groups marching.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNF39la5XMp-JHDK6Qn9RcbZ9-T8VcifZ3MzMmK0nmU9amU1wjHN4MN05KD2a_Y5ANkBr6-Es4P301ae6PORxE2QfUHmHTpFf5EQzsBQFZfYGnEMaave9BZNVoqKhv_RE0K3RGDpgs54z/s1600/Taksim+Square+protests+Gezi+Park+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnNF39la5XMp-JHDK6Qn9RcbZ9-T8VcifZ3MzMmK0nmU9amU1wjHN4MN05KD2a_Y5ANkBr6-Es4P301ae6PORxE2QfUHmHTpFf5EQzsBQFZfYGnEMaave9BZNVoqKhv_RE0K3RGDpgs54z/s640/Taksim+Square+protests+Gezi+Park+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiF-nQOldKgwrNFtVQt-p57zfSbLnHMXXDF5pAFcmkq8SHJEQXrRcB_OKWYXiUGsqLYgOiDZVpFGsxP6lWxOz6Kc_dTiIy4yX5YdxXYknj42JMbU-zThDCCO7TtBvA8GmASmI9juvMLAfh/s1600/Taksim+Square+union+protests+parade+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiF-nQOldKgwrNFtVQt-p57zfSbLnHMXXDF5pAFcmkq8SHJEQXrRcB_OKWYXiUGsqLYgOiDZVpFGsxP6lWxOz6Kc_dTiIy4yX5YdxXYknj42JMbU-zThDCCO7TtBvA8GmASmI9juvMLAfh/s640/Taksim+Square+union+protests+parade+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
But despite all the damage and the continued peaceful protests, I was also surprised by how easily everyone was going about their regular business -- while things are not back to normal in the sense that this is still a burning issue, people have cheerfully rebounded from the chaos that was Friday and Saturday. While some people gave away free face masks during the height of the violence (and people continue to give away free food and drinks), we saw some entrepreneurial souls selling cotton candy, drinks, and <i>V is for Vendetta</i> and gas masks around Istiklal.<br />
<br />
After our stroll down Istiklal, we walked the perimeter of Taksim Square. There are still a number of damaged and overturned vehicles blocking the roads up to the square, and they've seemingly become photo ops for gawkers like ourselves. There were also a couple of destroyed city buses next to Gezi Park, and those have seemingly turned into hangout areas for local teenagers, teenagers who I suspect aren't much interested in the actual protests. :)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYk3T4n1prdXUDE_wVM6r5OIv-pXIhz15KyeLLtBI4UUi4Mcyh8PYxCy48qiYeVY36mnvKuDkwep_vxGmw29HDXnBe5TV9nObIjaYEa5yAu6MK3t7SCmEohZ5T3AdYN-MyujekaDY5u4q/s1600/Taksim+protests+destroyed+cars+tourism+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYk3T4n1prdXUDE_wVM6r5OIv-pXIhz15KyeLLtBI4UUi4Mcyh8PYxCy48qiYeVY36mnvKuDkwep_vxGmw29HDXnBe5TV9nObIjaYEa5yAu6MK3t7SCmEohZ5T3AdYN-MyujekaDY5u4q/s640/Taksim+protests+destroyed+cars+tourism+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NVyKJdQcTZnbeaqG-LeWeRBp8AiT6rP4D3JJ9D7EUAIGFxO8-FlRZgpi5sGkFi23GO00EvlziMAdEC6BmKx05T5x_wN5M-Vftr153t5TgMQLhPqeye1IsnZWjVYCshq6wrYkpY2TBN96/s1600/Teenagers+playing+vandalized+bus+Taksim+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NVyKJdQcTZnbeaqG-LeWeRBp8AiT6rP4D3JJ9D7EUAIGFxO8-FlRZgpi5sGkFi23GO00EvlziMAdEC6BmKx05T5x_wN5M-Vftr153t5TgMQLhPqeye1IsnZWjVYCshq6wrYkpY2TBN96/s640/Teenagers+playing+vandalized+bus+Taksim+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Our last stop was Gezi Park. I was actually shocked by how many people were in the park -- it was absolutely packed, and there were still a lot of tents up, which suggests that there is a permanent group camped out there.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZKMAaOSu0VTlGh1DL35kPl7c3cyTw3GBUEm44aSMX7emorkvwThjH-an1gIC05zjwJlmCKu21mHbgj471FjSDh99Z8PKL75jFHOOVtgXmXFppNflur7pRaRkbXk8Uyb5HJ-BPKW0kPbl/s1600/Gezi+Park+protesters+sit-in+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZKMAaOSu0VTlGh1DL35kPl7c3cyTw3GBUEm44aSMX7emorkvwThjH-an1gIC05zjwJlmCKu21mHbgj471FjSDh99Z8PKL75jFHOOVtgXmXFppNflur7pRaRkbXk8Uyb5HJ-BPKW0kPbl/s640/Gezi+Park+protesters+sit-in+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
In the area where the trees were taken down, some people had planted a small garden. Some of the little plants had an IV bag attached.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisc6pVFuLqHwgMZ042hcUfORMxq-8TzGmU2-UdsLG14CJEu2gmvZ6iNuvcnAkwBIiVANhhiNgTm0kKCJNnjujZCyBAV7Ics8ct0aAfyuvvwDEdM-gM8YpfTQS4cH2AAqj_0J2B72Y2eOJ0/s1600/Gezi+Park+new+garden+life+support+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisc6pVFuLqHwgMZ042hcUfORMxq-8TzGmU2-UdsLG14CJEu2gmvZ6iNuvcnAkwBIiVANhhiNgTm0kKCJNnjujZCyBAV7Ics8ct0aAfyuvvwDEdM-gM8YpfTQS4cH2AAqj_0J2B72Y2eOJ0/s640/Gezi+Park+new+garden+life+support+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
So, that's what's happening here. I'm not sure where or how it will end...stay tuned. But I hope there can be some actual reconciliation on the issue of the park. Because just look at this city -- so much concrete, so few trees...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9uXx-CmHCiViPq5ddm7thyphenhyphenOAZl3Rw9Dd3NgiI5Uvxe1jhHpEnavHibquri3-G6j0TgvXD26g3BaAMjREPZr59bdwzTXcdeLS28FiDVAkswjHbEnhLwkr1X3pJSx_6K9p6dbiZnV8cW8b/s1600/Gezi+Park+6-5-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-9uXx-CmHCiViPq5ddm7thyphenhyphenOAZl3Rw9Dd3NgiI5Uvxe1jhHpEnavHibquri3-G6j0TgvXD26g3BaAMjREPZr59bdwzTXcdeLS28FiDVAkswjHbEnhLwkr1X3pJSx_6K9p6dbiZnV8cW8b/s640/Gezi+Park+6-5-13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8qxcwkiKb9BZON8Kxc3XQQhqf2QnWF45AufXr-5yjU38W9XSDjgu0plb3Qn77nyctGgg8-zrZcAdEzFvDEQxxHQXa0ZH3bLByNRCbwjAt_dCJUuXUOYT26VK7oYu7HqWuOU2bQU7TECRH/s1600/Taksim+Square+road+project+Gezi+Park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8qxcwkiKb9BZON8Kxc3XQQhqf2QnWF45AufXr-5yjU38W9XSDjgu0plb3Qn77nyctGgg8-zrZcAdEzFvDEQxxHQXa0ZH3bLByNRCbwjAt_dCJUuXUOYT26VK7oYu7HqWuOU2bQU7TECRH/s640/Taksim+Square+road+project+Gezi+Park.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-12749309218421089382013-06-04T20:50:00.001+03:002013-07-14T17:04:48.433+03:00All You Need to Know About Gezi Park -- Christiane Amanpour's interview with the AKP<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj17Vq2OParemA8_OGlYkwDqhCqogYzvl_t9BYSGZ0cglo4UYPy4tRVuB5fXR7uvsaHeRkAD_HMF6d4ldAOx_aRQk4SeATdf48qaPy5mIi8s1GxXdmS2ZkhjSuFqds9er7QKqEyOjpvnMa3/s1600/Taksim+Square+Gezi+Park+plan.Jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj17Vq2OParemA8_OGlYkwDqhCqogYzvl_t9BYSGZ0cglo4UYPy4tRVuB5fXR7uvsaHeRkAD_HMF6d4ldAOx_aRQk4SeATdf48qaPy5mIi8s1GxXdmS2ZkhjSuFqds9er7QKqEyOjpvnMa3/s320/Taksim+Square+Gezi+Park+plan.Jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The proposed reconstruction of the Topcu Barracks*</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While the Gezi Park protests may have started over some trees, they have grown to encompass a wide-range of issues, mostly stemming from concerns that Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan's AKP government has grown increasingly autocratic. There have been <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/columnistDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=316568">a number of laws and rules passed recently</a> that suggest the government is trying to push a more religious lifestyle, while at the same time, a number of large city projects have begun (or continue) seemingly without public input. In short, the secular citizens of Turkey feel that they their country is changing and they have no say in the matter.<br />
<br />
I could link to a thousand things to support various points and arguments, but if you want to understand the basic situation in Istanbul right now, and how the two sides do not see eye-to-eye, here's what you need to watch: <a href="http://amanpour.blogs.cnn.com/2013/06/03/exclusive-turkish-politician-claims-mall-was-ever-planned/">Christiane Amanpour's 8-minute interview</a> with Mevlut Cavusoglu, an AKP guy from Antalya who is currently with the prime minister in Morocco. I'll even provide a guide to go along with his statements.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Minute 0:37: Cavusoglu says, "Well, first of all, I have to correct the fake information, that building a shopping mall has never been considered here in Taksim Square. What is considered is the pedestrian way and the putting the car traffic under the tunnel, and enlarging the Taksim Square. Only old military barrack is considered to rebuilt, the old military barrack."</span> The grammar isn't perfect, but he's referring to the defense recently put forth that the trees were only cut down to widen the sidewalk, and that the only construction that will happen in Taksim Square will be the reconstruction of former military barracks on the site. While I won't call his statement an outright lie -- although according to multiple local newspapers, <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/newsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=314134">Erdogan himself confirmed</a> that the reconstructed barracks "<a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/turkish-prime-minister-promises-mall-residence-in-heart-of-istanbul.aspx?pageID=238&nid=45859">are to be converted into a shopping mall and might serve as a residence with social facilities</a>" in a speech on April 29 -- Cavusoglu is certainly obfuscating the issue. First of all, the mall (or whatever else) was going to be in the barracks -- it's not a questions of the barracks vs the mall. But let's give him the benefit of the doubt and say they never intended to build a mall in the barracks. Fine, no mall. Maybe they intend to create a hotel. The fact is, IT DOESN'T MATTER. It's the barracks that are the issue because no matter what the barracks are used for, their construction destroys the park -- and the park is the point, not the mall.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Minute 1:14: Cavusoglu says,"And this project was actually supported by all the political parties in the city council, and it was adopted unanimously by the city council."</span> This is an absolute simplification of a much more complicated approval process, one that was met with controversy. The project was first approved by the municipality, but <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/newsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=271164">the decision was later nullified</a> by another board over concerns about the park. Then that decision was overruled by High Council for Protection of Cultural and Natural Assets in February or March (depending on your source). "Professor Betul Tanbay from the [Taksim] platform told Sunday's Zaman that <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/newsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=271164">many people feel betrayed by the lack of consultation and the secrecy with which the plans were passed through official channels</a>," according to an article published in February.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Minute 4:04: Cavusoglu says, "We have been elected by the people, and in last election, more than 50 percent of the population supported us."</span> Nitpicky perhaps, but in the 2011 elections, <a href="http://www.ysk.gov.tr/ysk/docs/2011MilletvekiliSecimi/gumrukdahil/gumrukdahil.pdf">the AKP won 49.83 percent of the popular vote</a>. But I mention this because I think his statement is meant to suggest that a vast majority of the Turkish people support the AKP and their policies, and it simply isn't true. Half the country supports their general policies and half don't.<br />
<br />
Minute 5:45: Starting at minute 5, you can start to hear Christiane Amanpour's frustration with Mevlut Cavusoglu as he continues to talk and won't let her speak. <span style="color: red;">Finally, Amanpour says, "Sir...Sir, please, this is an interview, sir. I need to ask you some questions...I need to ask you some questions, this is an interview, sir, not a speech. It involves me asking you some questions."</span> Along with "<a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/court-suspends-planned-artillery-barracks-project-to-replace-gezi-park.aspx?PageID=238&NID=48006&NewsCatID=341">Do whatever you want to do, but we've made our decision</a>," Erdogan's statement last Wednesday, Cavusoglu's attitude during this interview is, for me, the personification of the government's attitude to both the people and the recent protests. Imagine how they must listen to their citizens!<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">Min 6:58: Cavusoglu says, "Regarding the second group [the radical and marginal groups], we cannot negotiate with the terrorists and the marginals."</span> This actually made me laugh out loud since <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/03/nevruz-cease-fire.html">the government did, in fact, negotiate with the Kurdistan Workers' Party [PKK]</a> this spring, allowing the members of the terrorist group to lay down their arms and leave Turkey without any sort of punishment. During the PKK's 30-year clash with the Turkish government, some 40,000 people were killed.<br />
<br />
*The rendering of the proposed reconstruction of the Topcu Barracks comes <a href="http://www.radikal.com.tr/turkiye/taksim_topcu_kislasi_icin_son_karar_verildi-1123242">from a local newspaper's website</a>. The barracks surround what is now Gezi Park. A version of this image was used during an interview Prime Minister Erdogan gave over the weekend; in the video, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cfNKKUDcV4">it appears just after 1:25:24</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-49692659998789745342013-06-01T22:11:00.004+03:002013-06-01T22:11:57.777+03:00The Sounds of ProtestI thought everything in Istanbul would be calming down since the riot police left Taksim Square late this afternoon, allowing the thousands of protesters to gather unimpeded in the square. But unfortunately, we're hearing on Twitter that the police have used (are still using?) water cannons and tear gas against protesters this evening in Besiktas. Which happens to be the municipality we live in, but that's cool. :( Social networks indicate that protesters are heading to Besiktas now and that the police are trying to stop them from getting there. The prime minister's Istanbul office is over there (it was <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/06/this-week-in-turkey-protests-in.html">right across from where we were standing when we encountered the CHP parade</a> this afternoon, in fact), and I am not sure if that has anything to do with it, either really or as an excuse. I think it's fair to say we can expect another day of chaos tomorrow.<br />
<br />
We're safe and sound inside our apartment, and everything is fine in our immediate neighborhood. But I can hear the sounds of protest quite clearly -- honking horns, whistles and the banging of pots. Apparently it's what Turks do to show solidarity. Listen in:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyvZksKFz6mByA7DRU9_p-lBEGFs6y_wjJ-h8yw88m89d8YaY6P2NxzxEhao5K68Ad3gETCZwfIPAjoaXdpJQ' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
These were the kinds of noises that woke me up in the middle of the night last night. It freaked me out in the seconds before I could figure out what was going on and that we weren't actually being attacked in our beds. :(<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-21195373865233214252013-06-01T17:50:00.000+03:002013-06-01T17:53:55.337+03:00This Week in Turkey: Protests in Istanbul's Taksim Square<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXa-_uYHnQu0mWT0QOqySNMLd6kCNcXAPSYiHLU6Et6FNHF2L99mJrUYx5rFHYccd-KaoBmsVH-6_7L2VdQWaCSSr0eG1HRp1OVYAi-6QSD_9_l4jyS05nJJ33Efavf60V1xujAiduKYe/s1600/Walking+to+Taksim+Gezi+Park.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXa-_uYHnQu0mWT0QOqySNMLd6kCNcXAPSYiHLU6Et6FNHF2L99mJrUYx5rFHYccd-KaoBmsVH-6_7L2VdQWaCSSr0eG1HRp1OVYAi-6QSD_9_l4jyS05nJJ33Efavf60V1xujAiduKYe/s320/Walking+to+Taksim+Gezi+Park.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
As I'm sure most people have heard, Istanbul is going CRAZY right now. The police have just left Taksim Square, allowing thousands of protesters to pour in -- from what we can see on TV right now, Taksim is absolutely packed, with what looks like thousands and thousands of people. Hooray, victory for the people! Hahahaha, probably not -- although the prime minister today admitted that riot police have used excessive force, <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/news-317143-.html">he also said that the controversial barracks project that started all of this will proceed</a>.<br />
<br />
We've just gotten back home, but we never actually made it to Taksim today. When we left the house this morning, we took the metro as far as we could, to Sisli-Mecidiyekoy (two stops from Taksim Square), and then we walked. At first, all was peaceful, but as we neared the Osmanbey stop, the crowd swelled and an advance-retreat with the riot police began. Everyone would be walking toward Taksim and then the police would fire pepper gas at us -- Cagatay and I weren't really all that near the front of the crowd, but that pepper gas was powerful stuff, making our eyes, noses and throats burn unbearably. At one point, a man gave us face masks.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzV3_OvDWgPcOwkmmzBH-snGBWzDp46zgU7B6WpFCgWdWz6Cu3xPWP-jt3C2gAjcWYQKMkk-qV9XljRuIAEUA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
Fleeing from the pepper gas, the crowd would back up a couple of blocks, but then, within a few minutes, everyone would advance again and then it would be more pepper gas, and the cycle would begin again. We got as far as Harbiye, perhaps five to seven minutes on foot from Taksim, before giving up and heading into Nisantasi to find something to eat. Because by that point, we could see the front of the crowd and the police were letting off pepper gas over and over again, creating these huge plumes of smoke -- and it was pretty alarming to suddenly have a wall of people running back towards us.<br />
<br />
Later, as we walked through eerily silent neighborhoods, past all the closed shops and along traffic-less streets -- it was sort of like the Muslim Rapture had gone down -- we ended up running into the huge CHP parade heading for Taksim. We thought about joining them, but we didn't know what was happening in Taksim and we didn't want to deal with pepper gas again or water cannons, so instead, we headed home.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh454PtK8zECcMkq7eIWEmT9jDLqZCUcsEtZ3GYvUsgomM6idEv5MoPlupnL8UNNE3ZTlPJ06-iOqjnTLw_udjvDVSbASZbau4Aae157jyFEd9U3yIfOWCO4rU0oqUTQ84j91lS3ju_4BC/s1600/CHP+protest+walk+Besiktas+to+Taksim+Gezi+Park.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh454PtK8zECcMkq7eIWEmT9jDLqZCUcsEtZ3GYvUsgomM6idEv5MoPlupnL8UNNE3ZTlPJ06-iOqjnTLw_udjvDVSbASZbau4Aae157jyFEd9U3yIfOWCO4rU0oqUTQ84j91lS3ju_4BC/s640/CHP+protest+walk+Besiktas+to+Taksim+Gezi+Park.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
This whole situation began at the beginning of the week when people gathered in Gezi Park -- located on one side of historic Taksim Square -- to protest the destruction of the park's trees as part of a project to reconstruct an old military barracks on the site that will apparently serve as a mall and residences. As I understand it, the protests started because some of the trees on the edges of the park had been felled, which made people believe that construction on the project had begun. Yesterday, Istanbul's governor and mayor held a press conference and denied that there were any plans to build a mall there; they said that they were just widening the sidewalks, but there have been rumors about the planned use of the barracks for months and I think it's fair to say that <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/locals-stand-guard-to-stop-park-demolition-in-istanbuls-center.aspx?pageID=238&nid=47746">comments from other leaders have confirmed this</a>.<br />
<br />
Although the police had entered the park in the mornings to try and evict the protesters (one morning they burned their tents), for the most part, things were peaceful at Gezi Park. From photos I saw on Facebook and Instagram, people were kind of just hanging out. I was in Taksim on Thursday afternoon, coming home from an outing with a friend, and I was so worn out from the sun that I forgot all about what was going on in the park, which I was about 30 steps from. That's how normal things were.<br />
<br />
But on Friday, everything changed and the riot police just went nuts on the protesters. You've probably <a href="http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/gundem/23410204.asp">seen the videos</a> on TV. We had just entered the metro, on our way to Taksim, when we heard that the Taksim station was closed -- in retrospect, it was probably a good thing as we would have walked right into tear gas and water cannons. Things were pretty normal in our neighborhood except that in the middle of the night, a bunch of people took to the streets in solidarity -- I woke up terrified around 2:30am to people yelling outside and banging pots.<br />
<br />
Anyway, more on this later...<br />
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-47455345680340487562013-05-15T18:55:00.002+03:002013-10-03T00:03:48.624+03:00Visiting Kas<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_H0GxS5NG-kfA90HIbcAoqf4sOM2JwuTqvEdUlh6mGRjm_Y1lcxoSgPNjTsJhW0D9mASVGKVyDzWO5rtowsBC5LuhjYwZPokTvWOCcJT7bfZ2GYKY8DzsrLREVQuy9VJHcTlz4zkc5lj/s1600/Kas+Turkey+white-wash+flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD_H0GxS5NG-kfA90HIbcAoqf4sOM2JwuTqvEdUlh6mGRjm_Y1lcxoSgPNjTsJhW0D9mASVGKVyDzWO5rtowsBC5LuhjYwZPokTvWOCcJT7bfZ2GYKY8DzsrLREVQuy9VJHcTlz4zkc5lj/s320/Kas+Turkey+white-wash+flowers.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
After Cappadocia, we took our Canadian friends to Kas for a couple of days. If you follow my blog, this should not come as I surprise as I've gone on and on about Kas' fabulousness in the past. (Our trip last summer starts <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-finding-santa-claus-in-demre.html">here</a>.)<br />
<br />
Kas is a rare jewel on Turkey's Mediterranean coast, and I cannot say enough good things about it. There isn't a direct connection by road or air, so if you want to get there, you have to drive a few hours from either Antalya to the east or the town of Fethiye or the Dalaman airport to the west, which has kept Kas delightfully quiet and laid-back. At the same time, it's also a great base for exploring the area -- there are a number of restaurants and hotels in town, and it's close enough to popular places like the <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-finding-santa-claus-in-demre.html">St. Nicholas Church</a> in Demre, Saklikent Gorge, Patara beach, the Kekova sunken city ruins where you can go kayaking, and the above-water ruins at Xanthos, Letoon, Myra, Patara and <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-ruins-of-tlos-and-patara.html">Tlos</a>. In Kas, you can also go s<span style="font-family: inherit;">cuba diving, hang gliding and take <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/09/kas-trip-across-to-kastellorizo-greece.html">a day-trip to a Greek island</a>. [I suppose I should also point out that Kas is actually <span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;">Kaş -- I usually can't be bothered to add the Turkish accents on my American keyboard -- and pronounced Kah-shh.] </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Anyway, so on this trip, we spent three lovely nights in Kas. Since we'd been multiple times before, we let our friends decide what we would do, and in the end, they didn't want to do anything but just enjoy the ambiance (and the gloriously warm weather, a marked change from both Cappadocia and Canada). Which is a perfectly reasonable thing to do in such a lovely town.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbxFqq3LIqXRwoM-QZccX-sak0BVQvPFsaRN5uAvbmx4OcPbEoZGkzwKZZnEpfyPB6slaFWhkmccuLSFXNPMdBM6xK1-7wq5b0wqn8U5R4cZ6F9vniqGca9RXPMXS_FIVeI75xhNFoTtI/s1600/Kas+Turkey+public+park+exercise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDbxFqq3LIqXRwoM-QZccX-sak0BVQvPFsaRN5uAvbmx4OcPbEoZGkzwKZZnEpfyPB6slaFWhkmccuLSFXNPMdBM6xK1-7wq5b0wqn8U5R4cZ6F9vniqGca9RXPMXS_FIVeI75xhNFoTtI/s640/Kas+Turkey+public+park+exercise.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Not surprisingly, the locals agree...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG97fwSBK05F0Oz5-qC9GhhJ_M3JyLlba8Aaobb1cI5i4_owgDvw1phW_DjzEFvSr6sd9mchrTQe8XOLFyNKFQfTTEZcaYHKToqCSoqHU30pvn_55SJmN9pFSH3TXjMjYC766_C_mmXE6F/s1600/Kas+Turkey+relaxing+cats2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG97fwSBK05F0Oz5-qC9GhhJ_M3JyLlba8Aaobb1cI5i4_owgDvw1phW_DjzEFvSr6sd9mchrTQe8XOLFyNKFQfTTEZcaYHKToqCSoqHU30pvn_55SJmN9pFSH3TXjMjYC766_C_mmXE6F/s640/Kas+Turkey+relaxing+cats2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16px;">Our first full day there was April 23, National Sovereignty and Children's Day in Turkey. Although the holiday actually commemorates the establishment of the Turkish parliament in 1920, it's become about children and most people have the day off from work. So, appropriately, there were little children playing in the square and dancing to music.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDuaBJTQVxQYWSgqPvDDMxYfUuFo4N0dRzmxuOk58Il0stioS-4w0JyZD-iOj3qKlazPNxZ9cu7PsWXKz9vDN_JRMKCvYrRtEX_IsZMfvXC6H2LIqrXeT2nAh0nqkDnqdYWR2S9KcO55ZI/s1600/Kas+Turkey+meydan+Ataturk+statue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDuaBJTQVxQYWSgqPvDDMxYfUuFo4N0dRzmxuOk58Il0stioS-4w0JyZD-iOj3qKlazPNxZ9cu7PsWXKz9vDN_JRMKCvYrRtEX_IsZMfvXC6H2LIqrXeT2nAh0nqkDnqdYWR2S9KcO55ZI/s640/Kas+Turkey+meydan+Ataturk+statue.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvyL6L_e4yTgZoTXxVBZF_9QKbX81tkZ9s-9hL2XcEb8xFu-IzyZuJpx3Kjq15tLJ5H-rg5pjURhSrk0pdnh3lgfKkIldzzfOVh4_pKEqq7VTqIB7MuT6dVcTZeuKetuTRWd9JKYOIacQv/s1600/Kas+Turkey+child's+toy+tank.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvyL6L_e4yTgZoTXxVBZF_9QKbX81tkZ9s-9hL2XcEb8xFu-IzyZuJpx3Kjq15tLJ5H-rg5pjURhSrk0pdnh3lgfKkIldzzfOVh4_pKEqq7VTqIB7MuT6dVcTZeuKetuTRWd9JKYOIacQv/s400/Kas+Turkey+child's+toy+tank.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlW2Y_bjm3VCiV-5TlWA34SfiYhyphenhyphen90qlhHRl-q6Ubr5rWXdU_I90VCDynJ7-didgdUWgfUQFcgS-eefQxhR3l4ztdaVyy4-bLXtbHDb_uDt0HuMX-jQ55L6wUX6aBCjHP2qqDdB914F-a7/s1600/Kas+Turkey+shopping+street.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlW2Y_bjm3VCiV-5TlWA34SfiYhyphenhyphen90qlhHRl-q6Ubr5rWXdU_I90VCDynJ7-didgdUWgfUQFcgS-eefQxhR3l4ztdaVyy4-bLXtbHDb_uDt0HuMX-jQ55L6wUX6aBCjHP2qqDdB914F-a7/s400/Kas+Turkey+shopping+street.jpg" width="300" /></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span><br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We spent a lot of time eating and drinking. The oranges were in abundance and we enjoyed many glasses of freshly squeezed juice. Cagatay and our friends also enjoyed Turkish coffee, and we had some fun playing fortune-teller with the leftover coffee grounds. This is a real thing -- to start, you place the saucer over the finished cup and make a wish, and then you flip the cup/saucer over and let it sit for awhile. Cagatay suggested that they put their wedding rings on top of the flipped cup because it helps the cup cool faster, though one source I found said that <a href="http://www.turkishculture.org/lifestyles/turkish-culture-portal/coffee-fortune-telling-205.htm">it also helps to dispel bad omens</a>. After awhile, you flip open your coffee cup and begin interpreting the patterns left by the grounds, which have migrated up along the sides and probably onto the saucer. That's all I know about it, but <a href="http://www.turkishculture.org/lifestyles/turkish-culture-portal/coffee-fortune-telling-205.htm">go here for details on how to interpret the grounds patterns</a>. With this cup, we felt like it had something to do with Cappadocia...don't those look like <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/visiting-cappadocia-day-one.html">the rock formations at Pasabaglari</a>?</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ebqRX-DEZJHaURtdyepC_nTDkKancrWLy9s5bwoajb7OLzyx8SWe5xrOakmGoAaPkgDdD128zY73s8feeaGdOnfmenC871gj84seQcmq1RXDc37NyMwTlcH2N-GahjRIfNznIw0vCW6F/s1600/Kas+Turkey+fortune+telling+Turkish+coffee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ebqRX-DEZJHaURtdyepC_nTDkKancrWLy9s5bwoajb7OLzyx8SWe5xrOakmGoAaPkgDdD128zY73s8feeaGdOnfmenC871gj84seQcmq1RXDc37NyMwTlcH2N-GahjRIfNznIw0vCW6F/s640/Kas+Turkey+fortune+telling+Turkish+coffee.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;">We also spent a lot of time poking around the shops...</span><br />
<span style="color: #222222;"><span style="line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVCqi8TZfH4YR8upZbOzpqqXltelZeLXl9UloOSmlOE0tTR6RjIS0LNQ9oaorVq79rcWzA6gzJloTVNbwcWgrlMMoVgICKYbNhWhguCdBYt7a-SvRhghTthY5kx7ENxmoSjXVzUFGSirC/s1600/Kas+Turkey+colorful+pestemels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVCqi8TZfH4YR8upZbOzpqqXltelZeLXl9UloOSmlOE0tTR6RjIS0LNQ9oaorVq79rcWzA6gzJloTVNbwcWgrlMMoVgICKYbNhWhguCdBYt7a-SvRhghTthY5kx7ENxmoSjXVzUFGSirC/s400/Kas+Turkey+colorful+pestemels.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOokTzZxG6Yh9IlI5N2mSqCzTrbOXAuW7zLvXTVtqqEw6eTKOvC60cGV6PVHlU-3zRPC0YaLaGUo_SCxEbvT-fwf1r-n7gyfEEToxkmI_9kPzjp94YdJd-CGesO0p5wkotDEcbTgzQ61vi/s1600/Kas+Turkey+shopping+sleeping+cat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOokTzZxG6Yh9IlI5N2mSqCzTrbOXAuW7zLvXTVtqqEw6eTKOvC60cGV6PVHlU-3zRPC0YaLaGUo_SCxEbvT-fwf1r-n7gyfEEToxkmI_9kPzjp94YdJd-CGesO0p5wkotDEcbTgzQ61vi/s400/Kas+Turkey+shopping+sleeping+cat.jpg" width="300" /></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;">...and just wandering around. Seriously, isn't Kas just gorgeous?</span></div>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkqrfVuxgB7XPypp_n136V6R5MFutVvht8dKntHHPMkWqCxnFW_C5aNOTvnJ7xR7V4HENm2WhKBhX26P_noCGwSSsnQ4lH8T4fD9SM-K_UU2OAsum4c0NyL-FXL4QvkSdNJH2rKn0GNCM/s1600/Kas+Turkey+bee+purple+flowers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkqrfVuxgB7XPypp_n136V6R5MFutVvht8dKntHHPMkWqCxnFW_C5aNOTvnJ7xR7V4HENm2WhKBhX26P_noCGwSSsnQ4lH8T4fD9SM-K_UU2OAsum4c0NyL-FXL4QvkSdNJH2rKn0GNCM/s400/Kas+Turkey+bee+purple+flowers.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ig_jEuT2OIuBvcxTVypNg5CcpgTVvMqhCjDqlNWD1WNuZaS36DqWlBzAh_nDmIuEsi0y2pGsQ-4YND4SmLJa03AoDMruvbqSRq-WNHIeeQG28xw1fp-q-wJcqAPRT311h7xUMPCpE28a/s1600/Kas+Turkey+clear+blue+Mediterranean+water.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ig_jEuT2OIuBvcxTVypNg5CcpgTVvMqhCjDqlNWD1WNuZaS36DqWlBzAh_nDmIuEsi0y2pGsQ-4YND4SmLJa03AoDMruvbqSRq-WNHIeeQG28xw1fp-q-wJcqAPRT311h7xUMPCpE28a/s400/Kas+Turkey+clear+blue+Mediterranean+water.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMPGFefXVq5nc2IyKDZNlIWD40jR6WAPSPhBTHFJ8cStzNsxHF40zYuAGlNfynDS-URMf4F9KmVWtEcMWHyvB12erGzln4IKDo5_OKajcsy2PJIKuM2YDEzoBD_3Blqi80zzcIDceOJwC/s1600/Kas+Turkey+harbor+boat+repair.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMPGFefXVq5nc2IyKDZNlIWD40jR6WAPSPhBTHFJ8cStzNsxHF40zYuAGlNfynDS-URMf4F9KmVWtEcMWHyvB12erGzln4IKDo5_OKajcsy2PJIKuM2YDEzoBD_3Blqi80zzcIDceOJwC/s400/Kas+Turkey+harbor+boat+repair.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1ehNWO-YSAx5UuJ5CRaObmBj5Q5W9Jqu7JdysGVoFb5kB6WMjE0sxMin3P6_i465xY2nSCxCMypEDOVdHMqHt_UMECG9Rx-SHyR1Ge4_lU4igG-U1VA5fOc68TpCpeKIZ6RrY7k1QCjE/s1600/Kas+Turkey+harbor+Lycian+tomb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1ehNWO-YSAx5UuJ5CRaObmBj5Q5W9Jqu7JdysGVoFb5kB6WMjE0sxMin3P6_i465xY2nSCxCMypEDOVdHMqHt_UMECG9Rx-SHyR1Ge4_lU4igG-U1VA5fOc68TpCpeKIZ6RrY7k1QCjE/s640/Kas+Turkey+harbor+Lycian+tomb.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-56851017480485176372013-05-14T17:28:00.002+03:002013-05-29T11:27:46.976+03:00In Photos: Hot-Air Balloons in CappadociaI've spent two posts discussing our Cappadocia trip (<a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/visiting-cappadocia-day-one.html">here</a> and <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/visiting-cappadocia-day-two.html">here</a>), but the hot-air balloons deserve their own mention and a host of photos. I went on one of the balloons three summers ago and while it was a lot of fun*, I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that watching the hot-air balloons might actually be more breathtaking. We had a spectacular view of the balloons going up in the morning from the various outdoor areas of our hotel, the <a href="http://www.kelebekhotel.com/">Kelebek Cave Hotel</a>, and our friends could even see them floating across the horizon from their room (Arch room #3). Watching the balloons, even at 6:30am, was just unforgettable and another experience that outshone ordinary sightseeing.<br />
<br />
*Shortly after I wrote this post, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/death-toll-rises-to-3-in-balloon-crash-in-turkeys-cappadocia.aspx?pageID=238&nid=47283">a balloon hit another balloon during a morning ride in Cappadocia</a> on May 20, causing the lower balloon -- belonging to Anatolian Balloons, the red balloon company that happens to appear a number of times in these photos -- to fall from the air, which resulted in the deaths of three Brazilian tourists and injuries to a number of the other passengers. According to the newspaper, this is the first hot-air balloon accident since 2009, which is a pretty good safety record but no doubt little consolation to the Brazilians' families or the other injured tourists. Not surprisingly, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/number-of-balloons-goes-down-by-20-pct-after-crash-in-cappadocia.aspx?pageID=238&nid=47331">hot-air balloon bookings in Cappadocia are reportedly down 20 percent</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR7QCTlwjKIXIx-Jp48A73jwTz67g5iyXj0Z3NMTJRgjiOoKp0Parm-qv4uGo27jzuVIIUMicqw3ZBfNhDgMoHP0Wl1n8NfSiN8-zI8m1CPMGP7gvZenaeOQWkOnDESGRV2GhJGTAiUO-/s1600/hot-air+balloons+Goreme+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR7QCTlwjKIXIx-Jp48A73jwTz67g5iyXj0Z3NMTJRgjiOoKp0Parm-qv4uGo27jzuVIIUMicqw3ZBfNhDgMoHP0Wl1n8NfSiN8-zI8m1CPMGP7gvZenaeOQWkOnDESGRV2GhJGTAiUO-/s640/hot-air+balloons+Goreme+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibAAN64MXMf_dhwFtVVw7TMdzP57daVNfvlY4E8Yab2QEc45VBrjgmr0pSXdUj1FjQlwARK7-8xIgHRPggUV9aZrIMjYHx-DYMKsVTKVP0_CgGzNpo1mtYW5T5JFIsWLxCw7zwxbBEmI2T/s1600/Cappadocia+Turkey+Goreme+hot-air+balloon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibAAN64MXMf_dhwFtVVw7TMdzP57daVNfvlY4E8Yab2QEc45VBrjgmr0pSXdUj1FjQlwARK7-8xIgHRPggUV9aZrIMjYHx-DYMKsVTKVP0_CgGzNpo1mtYW5T5JFIsWLxCw7zwxbBEmI2T/s400/Cappadocia+Turkey+Goreme+hot-air+balloon.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzj_3LbycHEtXJB4X_zYrrudqeP9nQmyP0Wt0-3c7H-0fxnLpcBTKd3Tu69K9xPKaaDtPhyphenhyphenlVFOKxn3I00InY0ZKn0hWcAtQuStF8-U8FlzfbBs0B1lSmtccVfdL_Vauf5dsjW5Ij4h3Sk/s1600/Goreme+Turkey+hot-air+balloons.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzj_3LbycHEtXJB4X_zYrrudqeP9nQmyP0Wt0-3c7H-0fxnLpcBTKd3Tu69K9xPKaaDtPhyphenhyphenlVFOKxn3I00InY0ZKn0hWcAtQuStF8-U8FlzfbBs0B1lSmtccVfdL_Vauf5dsjW5Ij4h3Sk/s640/Goreme+Turkey+hot-air+balloons.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgITBD6TjduQNyaapTOxfyoaQVRz9_b3EVGwXZkTMM2Y5A61yV6Dfdfa1hm0m8udl6xzP6bMegF5w_JFlEyqrx3Vrxw5lJ1gdHI7cPO1-5ahs1wvxDH3DBnUC0rK7hUU7vv6EDMVbsE9k9Z/s1600/Turkey+Goreme+hot-air+balloons+Cappadocia.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgITBD6TjduQNyaapTOxfyoaQVRz9_b3EVGwXZkTMM2Y5A61yV6Dfdfa1hm0m8udl6xzP6bMegF5w_JFlEyqrx3Vrxw5lJ1gdHI7cPO1-5ahs1wvxDH3DBnUC0rK7hUU7vv6EDMVbsE9k9Z/s400/Turkey+Goreme+hot-air+balloons+Cappadocia.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhinVjTNkmZJYaT-JDNH8AFBTUYk5jMJ2OVACxiUAPGY_xSrWInvRT3-dAnKKn2t1AeV7cDRvkDyYJsLKHzJsdRmbtyJIFOs-R9jaFus6N5eQkgtZ3PE2ZeSsrb8afIO0PatSQhGhWXs0_6/s1600/hot-air+balloons+morning+Goreme+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhinVjTNkmZJYaT-JDNH8AFBTUYk5jMJ2OVACxiUAPGY_xSrWInvRT3-dAnKKn2t1AeV7cDRvkDyYJsLKHzJsdRmbtyJIFOs-R9jaFus6N5eQkgtZ3PE2ZeSsrb8afIO0PatSQhGhWXs0_6/s640/hot-air+balloons+morning+Goreme+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-9663624235241200222013-05-14T17:19:00.000+03:002013-10-05T21:56:06.187+03:00Visiting Cappadocia, Day Two<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGQXFqzOnxGfmy4t2Agze7j5T8JZHCLnURS2OteY5NgUZBYQDDeY80LhDNFEE23BOD3quCRdizW0Pnk2CaAHiRcfaP4HRoQtbfwDmjEiIWV4VXAkTYvRQM8Q0tUvNjl7P5Cbj8NrY8Au3C/s1600/Goreme+Turkey+view+vista.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGQXFqzOnxGfmy4t2Agze7j5T8JZHCLnURS2OteY5NgUZBYQDDeY80LhDNFEE23BOD3quCRdizW0Pnk2CaAHiRcfaP4HRoQtbfwDmjEiIWV4VXAkTYvRQM8Q0tUvNjl7P5Cbj8NrY8Au3C/s400/Goreme+Turkey+view+vista.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
So, Cappadocia... Our second day and the morning following were a lot more fun, mostly because we went more for experiences rather than sightseeing. As I said in the last post, to me, <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/visiting-cappadocia-day-one.html">Cappadocia is a one-hit wonder</a> -- at every site, you're going to see a rock-cut
something. And while it is really amazing and interesting that people had the
tenacity to carve into these rocks and then live in them, at the end of the
day, it's still a lot of rocks.<br />
<br />
With that in mind, it should come as no surprise that everyone in our group agreed one of the best parts about the trip was the (free!) organic breakfast tour we went on through <a href="http://www.kelebekhotel.com/">the delightful Kelebek Cave Hotel</a>, which housed us for two nights. (The hotel was awesome -- I would probably come back just to stay there again and swim in the pool.) We took an open-air tractor-buggy to the owner's family farm, where we had an amazing Turkish breakfast of olives, tomatoes, menemen, cucumbers, cheese, dried apricots, strawberries, and more. We all really enjoyed this glimpse into Cappadocia's agricultural life, and the food was delicious.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhhyJ5nI9OFZhp3k0PM2bqRf8IqzNhQvqPuwT53wH4f3sVtqii-UsGDESzSbSw1LEYdMVODduHB_uBd1oTPgBqGjIYYW0POx_Ip-ALOxiLWgD6FmKYktHOq3mp_7euuFgk-IHEtcVFL8gk/s1600/Organic+breakfast+Kelebek+Hotel+Goreme+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhhyJ5nI9OFZhp3k0PM2bqRf8IqzNhQvqPuwT53wH4f3sVtqii-UsGDESzSbSw1LEYdMVODduHB_uBd1oTPgBqGjIYYW0POx_Ip-ALOxiLWgD6FmKYktHOq3mp_7euuFgk-IHEtcVFL8gk/s400/Organic+breakfast+Kelebek+Hotel+Goreme+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
We even got an up-close look at a couple of Kangal dogs, which are these huge Turkish mastiffs. As I recall, someone said this particular dog is only about a year old.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ofDncoY9A2JtxXPGUcFwOn7Vcpjwf9psFaE1jED4VnhnOGBq1uXXvp91RJXvzih5YLi3FaKtem_-BG-lmGyeR3cOOHS0bc-0hSIJb_9_p3UmhNKlgsCEdsw7yMuR5SHxFnq_cBzIZRZn/s1600/Kangal+dog+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5ofDncoY9A2JtxXPGUcFwOn7Vcpjwf9psFaE1jED4VnhnOGBq1uXXvp91RJXvzih5YLi3FaKtem_-BG-lmGyeR3cOOHS0bc-0hSIJb_9_p3UmhNKlgsCEdsw7yMuR5SHxFnq_cBzIZRZn/s640/Kangal+dog+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
We spent the afternoon sightseeing around the area south of Goreme. We started at the seven-level Derinkuyu underground city, which was built more than 1,000 years ago by the area's Christian inhabitants as a hiding spot for when invaders swept through. Information seems to vary on the interwebs, but according to Lonely Planet, there were more than 130 underground cities in the region, and Derinkuyu had about 10,000 inhabitants.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmHV9IdtaChJfwkEBQ41c-W01UG8lFM5wxqcXd2syX_s9DFzRC1i_GodRf41c1c6y3deNz7F-qieKdm5XBNsiZQ4f4T3CxFmZ6WvWpxc8ET23p5dbEnbSTxToUake5pBbrpprzfCEagVUn/s1600/Derinkuyu+Underground+City+stone+door+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmHV9IdtaChJfwkEBQ41c-W01UG8lFM5wxqcXd2syX_s9DFzRC1i_GodRf41c1c6y3deNz7F-qieKdm5XBNsiZQ4f4T3CxFmZ6WvWpxc8ET23p5dbEnbSTxToUake5pBbrpprzfCEagVUn/s640/Derinkuyu+Underground+City+stone+door+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Derinkuyu had a church, wine vats, a baptism pool, bedrooms and clever rolling stone doors, but there aren't any informational signs, so it's best to either go on a tour or hire a guide at the site. Otherwise, you'll have absolutely no idea what you're supposed to be looking at, and the site will seem like nothing more than -- wait for it -- rocks.<br />
<br />
After Derinkuyu, we drove to the town of Sahinefendi and the archaeological excavation site of Sobessos. Although the Cappadocia tours include Sobessos, there's not a lot to the site and at the moment, it's not very well signed. The Internet tells me that it was <a href="http://www.megalithic.co.uk/article.php?sid=30394">a fourth-century Roman settlement</a> and that <a href="http://sobesos.com/sobesos/album/sobesos.html">excavations began in 2002</a>, but I can't confirm that either bit is true. When compared to the rest of Turkey's ancient sites, Sobessos is a disappointment, but the drive there and beyond was lovely -- if you go, it's probably best to think of it as a pit-stop on an afternoon's road trip.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg38vphrJMmJ4PhQwzsGcqa2FUZlDH484JvVay6E5AfJrAsCUpmtYOI9g93SXN11uN9j8peMQMilo_APSmYrpnidHeIfFyQmnvo7xJaBNozgYxH0mSbZnaccQ0Zkfku190M7SJRAi0BA9Xq/s1600/Sobessos+excavation+mosaic+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg38vphrJMmJ4PhQwzsGcqa2FUZlDH484JvVay6E5AfJrAsCUpmtYOI9g93SXN11uN9j8peMQMilo_APSmYrpnidHeIfFyQmnvo7xJaBNozgYxH0mSbZnaccQ0Zkfku190M7SJRAi0BA9Xq/s400/Sobessos+excavation+mosaic+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
After Sobessos, we headed to Urgup for a very late lunch (or, perhaps more correctly, an early dinner). Since we were all starving, we didn't spend any time looking around, but from what I briefly saw, Urgup looked charming and probably deserved a bit more of our time. We spent the rest of our evening in Goreme, another charming town and our base. It was surprisingly quiet considering the amount of big tours we saw, but I fondly remember its mid-summer laid-back atmosphere from three summers ago. There's just something about it, some intangible quality, that I just love.<br />
<br />
Of course, Cappadocia is famous for its hot-air balloons tours*, and I would be remiss if I didn't mention them. I went on one of the balloons three summers ago -- it was a lot of fun, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that watching the hot-air balloons might actually be more breathtaking. We had a spectacular view of the balloons going up in the morning from the various outdoor areas of our hotel, and our friends could even see them floating across the horizon from their room (Arch room #3). Watching the balloons, even at 6:30am, was just unforgettable and another experience that outshone ordinary sightseeing, so much so that <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/05/in-photos-hot-air-balloons-in-cappadocia.html">I'm devoting another post just to photos</a>. (Having said that, you should still totally go on a balloon ride...consider this an extra option.)<br />
<br />
*Shortly after I wrote this post, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/death-toll-rises-to-3-in-balloon-crash-in-turkeys-cappadocia.aspx?pageID=238&nid=47283">a balloon hit another balloon during a morning ride in Cappadocia</a> on May 20, causing the lower balloon to fall from the air, which resulted in the deaths of three Brazilian tourists and injuries to a number of the other passengers. According to the newspaper, this is the first hot-air balloon accident since 2009, which is a pretty good safety record but no doubt little consolation to the Brazilians' families or the other injured tourists. Not surprisingly, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/number-of-balloons-goes-down-by-20-pct-after-crash-in-cappadocia.aspx?pageID=238&nid=47331">hot-air balloon bookings in Cappadocia are reportedly down 20 percent</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR7QCTlwjKIXIx-Jp48A73jwTz67g5iyXj0Z3NMTJRgjiOoKp0Parm-qv4uGo27jzuVIIUMicqw3ZBfNhDgMoHP0Wl1n8NfSiN8-zI8m1CPMGP7gvZenaeOQWkOnDESGRV2GhJGTAiUO-/s1600/hot-air+balloons+Goreme+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwR7QCTlwjKIXIx-Jp48A73jwTz67g5iyXj0Z3NMTJRgjiOoKp0Parm-qv4uGo27jzuVIIUMicqw3ZBfNhDgMoHP0Wl1n8NfSiN8-zI8m1CPMGP7gvZenaeOQWkOnDESGRV2GhJGTAiUO-/s640/hot-air+balloons+Goreme+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
But having said that, I'm ending with the Goreme Open-Air
Museum, arguably the region's most popular sightseeing attraction and absolutely its best, even if it does involve, yes, rocks. Even though we had to rush to the airport, we ducked in here for about 45 minutes on our last morning. There are perhaps
about 12 churches and chapels that you can pop into at this UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a number of them
still feature beautiful and colorful frescoes. We went around 9am this trip,
and the museum was unbearably packed -- when I went three years ago, I visited
late in the afternoon, and it was nearly empty. Just a little tip from me to you. :)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsR7NnlaMB8AbTBu16gK__wTB_JR0_o-O0NDphILGP6DMfDMPe2wT59jd90GHQKCfVR-sDV5vC9Hqq_d6mMcXxjWtYS2nanCdtmcnpW9Fzg-7eGeNRdvYzcV3FgAZ0SNu_ppV_u1EJeQQd/s1600/Yilanli+St.+Onuphorius+Church+Goreme+Open-Air+Museum.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsR7NnlaMB8AbTBu16gK__wTB_JR0_o-O0NDphILGP6DMfDMPe2wT59jd90GHQKCfVR-sDV5vC9Hqq_d6mMcXxjWtYS2nanCdtmcnpW9Fzg-7eGeNRdvYzcV3FgAZ0SNu_ppV_u1EJeQQd/s640/Yilanli+St.+Onuphorius+Church+Goreme+Open-Air+Museum.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-20966887563053897582013-05-06T16:37:00.002+03:002013-05-14T16:13:26.706+03:00Visiting Cappadocia, Day One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe01pmbpOSapiEEE4hJwqxcq6EJ0WY6AV0CxdDDpenI9eOPPjJUp4MhPi9wc3CALN5oZxyMuYfLfde3F2-roP4Q4VYECPOrUwnNCWyCCP-UY_XhNdOIkP1hwmIUwG-nXhAWW4iLJlzg6Cg/s1600/Driving+in+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe01pmbpOSapiEEE4hJwqxcq6EJ0WY6AV0CxdDDpenI9eOPPjJUp4MhPi9wc3CALN5oZxyMuYfLfde3F2-roP4Q4VYECPOrUwnNCWyCCP-UY_XhNdOIkP1hwmIUwG-nXhAWW4iLJlzg6Cg/s320/Driving+in+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="231" /></a></div>
We had some friends visiting from Canada at the end of April, so we took them on a mini-tour around Turkey, starting with Cappadocia. I went there when I came backpacking in Turkey in 2010, and to be honest, I wasn't all that excited about a return trip -- Cappadocia is beautiful and definitely worth a visit, but it's a one-hit wonder. But no one else had been, so off we went. :)<br />
<br />
BASIC INFO: Cappadocia is a region located in the middle of Turkey and to get there, you can either take the bus or fly into the Kayseri or Nevsehir airports. The Nevsehir airport is significantly closer, but it doesn't see a lot of flights; Kayseri is about an hour 15 minutes from Goreme, Cappadocia's main hub, but it seems to offer more options. (However, from both airports, the only option is to fly to and from Istanbul.) We rented a car at the airport since the daily rental price (TL 90) was the same amount the four of us would have paid for the shuttle to take us into Goreme -- everything in Cappadocia is really spread out, so renting a car was actually one of the best choices we made.<br />
<br />
In terms of sightseeing, we used the <a href="http://www.goreme.com/group-cappadocia-tours.php">group tour itineraries</a> as our guide. There are three main on-the-ground tours around Cappadocia, organized by location -- one takes in the area around Goreme (a hike in Rose Valley, Pasabag, maybe the open-air museum), one goes to the area directly south of Goreme (a hike in Soganli Valley, Sobessos), and one goes to the area to the southwest (a hike in Ilhara Valley, Selime rock monastery). Most include a visit to one of the underground cities, where villagers used to hide when invaders were passing through. Because of the distances and few roads, it's easiest to plan a day around a small section of the map, rather than drive around in all directions trying to see the highlights.<br />
<br />
On our first day in Cappadocia, we stuck to the sights around Goreme. We started in the small town of Cavusin, which was only about a 10-minute drive away. At street level was the modern town, but perched above it in the rocks was the old, abandoned part of town. It was fun to poke around, but there weren't any signs, so you didn't know what you were looking at.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJgnPoEyoBxQrPI4ZGVO1Pml-D_4oNg1eDc1smhDUOK0CfoY7M_DtIqMPgPo_5SjtkPcoUuFh-PTHU5LZm-0Kbco1KheRlxcCwW-IPe4dMZm2WOepggezDJrFzQobuutcu_7VO7hd35w4/s1600/Cavusin+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJgnPoEyoBxQrPI4ZGVO1Pml-D_4oNg1eDc1smhDUOK0CfoY7M_DtIqMPgPo_5SjtkPcoUuFh-PTHU5LZm-0Kbco1KheRlxcCwW-IPe4dMZm2WOepggezDJrFzQobuutcu_7VO7hd35w4/s640/Cavusin+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
After that, we visited the Zelve Open-Air Museum, which one of the guys at the hotel had recommended to us as a good alternative to the very crowded Goreme Open-Air Museum. But I don't think it's really comparable -- the Goreme Open-Air Museum has a lot of beautiful frescoes while the Zelve Open-Air Museum gives the region's best glimpse, I think, of what it would have been like to actually live in a rock-cut community. There's nothing left but the rocks, but with the few churches, a mosque and the mill stone, it felt the most authentic to me. That might also be because it was fairly recently inhabited -- the last residents moved out in the 1950s.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhJ-ClPGbddmto5BztFPBtrYeaKXiXRPIlRfOASYxKlUq3I3AbWDs1fCH16VXmWlry7t4aH9F8EUH7k5n5ruXkB9QmS5Kwpebw4qxDElwLXy6MV00hqnEae06iZ9hXLq4NTLNAaIv7-vTn/s1600/Zelve+Open-Air+Museum+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhJ-ClPGbddmto5BztFPBtrYeaKXiXRPIlRfOASYxKlUq3I3AbWDs1fCH16VXmWlry7t4aH9F8EUH7k5n5ruXkB9QmS5Kwpebw4qxDElwLXy6MV00hqnEae06iZ9hXLq4NTLNAaIv7-vTn/s640/Zelve+Open-Air+Museum+Cappadocia+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
After, we went to one of my favorite spots of the trip, Pasabaglari. It was just a relatively small area of __________-shaped fairy chimneys (fill in your own word based on the photo below), but I enjoyed walking along the paths.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2yTwvlkD_3ktp16pzqBxZetcBoY1w-edivaCn4OjRhkEVgHlTmXoW5_wbLnZLiDfZ6T9PvULIaO3K7j0J4mf3an0zZwokwHhyphenhyphenA0f4_tt-e7gYb-B1hNA-enDGwgImAoXWzSqeWzJxikH/s1600/Pasabaglari+Cappadocia+fairy+chimney+Turkey.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2yTwvlkD_3ktp16pzqBxZetcBoY1w-edivaCn4OjRhkEVgHlTmXoW5_wbLnZLiDfZ6T9PvULIaO3K7j0J4mf3an0zZwokwHhyphenhyphenA0f4_tt-e7gYb-B1hNA-enDGwgImAoXWzSqeWzJxikH/s640/Pasabaglari+Cappadocia+fairy+chimney+Turkey.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
To be honest, I wasn't all that enthused by what we saw on the first day. It was a lot of rocks. (Clearly I was not meant to be a geologist.) It also rained most of the day -- it even hailed at one point. We did have a lovely dinner at the grill restaurant Dayinin Yeri in Avanos, though.<br />
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-89581708501495288842013-04-19T18:02:00.002+03:002013-04-19T18:07:29.818+03:00Sultanahmet and the last of the tulipsOn Sunday, we spent the afternoon in Sultanahmet, the historic heart of Istanbul. Our main purpose was to buy me a <a href="http://www.muze.gov.tr/tr">museum card</a> (foreign residents are now allowed to buy the year-long pass, woohoo!), but we ended up just doing a lot of wandering around.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhace06jY9ldOI-fmEutTydDyBlIYTnl4ijp2syvTASwYAic3VvEXc1SXv-LGKrp5_NmwmaD6M6coYttZZHXy2IamsL1etWW7NN8URZDAeGAZqwotFysaPX0teKRIdZHDc8Kegmfcx76Lqa/s1600/Hagia+Sophia+spring+tulips.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhace06jY9ldOI-fmEutTydDyBlIYTnl4ijp2syvTASwYAic3VvEXc1SXv-LGKrp5_NmwmaD6M6coYttZZHXy2IamsL1etWW7NN8URZDAeGAZqwotFysaPX0teKRIdZHDc8Kegmfcx76Lqa/s400/Hagia+Sophia+spring+tulips.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Instagram photo of the Hagia Sophia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Although we went to <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/04/sultanahmet-tulips.html">Gulhane Park last year</a> to see the tulips, for whatever reason, we didn't go look at the tulips at the Blue Mosque or the Hagia Sophia. So this year, we rectified that; we also explored around the Hippodrome and popped into the Archaeology Museum, but I'll save those bits for another post.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdMWgbnT5spdpnfB72httSS27V4v0ugIWPA3t3OBUA7q1K_UwJScJfvoFkuW0AEA6q2stDtp4qvpQCoDYWFDAg99tf1sJYNu75tsW9C8PAp7SjzOgrKv42HhYgWytcRgx9bCMV9J7-oZhO/s1600/Hippodrome+Istanbul+happy+couple.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdMWgbnT5spdpnfB72httSS27V4v0ugIWPA3t3OBUA7q1K_UwJScJfvoFkuW0AEA6q2stDtp4qvpQCoDYWFDAg99tf1sJYNu75tsW9C8PAp7SjzOgrKv42HhYgWytcRgx9bCMV9J7-oZhO/s400/Hippodrome+Istanbul+happy+couple.PNG" width="395" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking along the Hippodrome, Instagram again</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We started at the Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque. I hadn't actually been inside the courtyard of the Blue Mosque since my very first day in Istanbul, all the way back in July 2010. That day, some guy tried to pick me up on the street -- I tried to duck him by going into the Blue Mosque, but he said he'd wait for me at the exit, so I covered up my hot-pink shirt with a black pashmina and ran out the other side. :)<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinDt_dmU_aH1SK9wkCCCTwyxwRK57OwvUYE4dPKSji_WiDHn9EzhHCI19RXfVYlno7hHfvEjgoM7kVZIY-urQ8QnsqElSzcNxO9h64jGp3sJHiKZvKLQNQiPHnd2XfhKh1xqpO1Zvg3XeN/s1600/Blue+Mosque+Istanbul+crescent+star+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinDt_dmU_aH1SK9wkCCCTwyxwRK57OwvUYE4dPKSji_WiDHn9EzhHCI19RXfVYlno7hHfvEjgoM7kVZIY-urQ8QnsqElSzcNxO9h64jGp3sJHiKZvKLQNQiPHnd2XfhKh1xqpO1Zvg3XeN/s400/Blue+Mosque+Istanbul+crescent+star+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crescent-and-star hedge...like the Turkish flag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYQ98j7czpFBh3PeluyfmnOqJuV_Ns-vTuBjSOcb81lDdeLGujqOMxDeVAvqbAdOsNxEEjFcNyVS9CxB7jVGumP-dNhxSNsZ8oa9Gppfyq-ynUEmaANJPedkbnfi1xPf2mPIblKVesmKc/s1600/Blue+Mosque+Istanbul+tulips+spring.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYQ98j7czpFBh3PeluyfmnOqJuV_Ns-vTuBjSOcb81lDdeLGujqOMxDeVAvqbAdOsNxEEjFcNyVS9CxB7jVGumP-dNhxSNsZ8oa9Gppfyq-ynUEmaANJPedkbnfi1xPf2mPIblKVesmKc/s400/Blue+Mosque+Istanbul+tulips+spring.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard of the Blue Mosque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
But I digress...<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFt-Jt82N58JWJSlz5E7FcP8A3xv0UxJq7tf2GrojduUrfULoSyWPqa8dax3MnPYf63sC8Ls0cA-gv-K4-YfmWH-LDId6jJucGlRAlAKg8Aot3CcAIRhyf4LB-W2YcbbwGzjIhIAZ-gKW0/s1600/Sultanahmet+Istanbul+street+cat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFt-Jt82N58JWJSlz5E7FcP8A3xv0UxJq7tf2GrojduUrfULoSyWPqa8dax3MnPYf63sC8Ls0cA-gv-K4-YfmWH-LDId6jJucGlRAlAKg8Aot3CcAIRhyf4LB-W2YcbbwGzjIhIAZ-gKW0/s400/Sultanahmet+Istanbul+street+cat.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street cat sitting on the weekly bazaar tables</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQ1tEC-zBYNvH13feGX7cqpAGjUUkJUQmb12jTabyB7jYPEYHSqev-3wZ8mIYtVY7yf5nVB2LyX5j680241u-2ChpZTgd-2iSjnvsckZqHAXPSHNrVVadHCBQURf8eirWtkpzVTnxQaz8/s1600/Sultanahmet+typical+street+Anadol+car+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhQ1tEC-zBYNvH13feGX7cqpAGjUUkJUQmb12jTabyB7jYPEYHSqev-3wZ8mIYtVY7yf5nVB2LyX5j680241u-2ChpZTgd-2iSjnvsckZqHAXPSHNrVVadHCBQURf8eirWtkpzVTnxQaz8/s400/Sultanahmet+typical+street+Anadol+car+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sultanahmet and Turkey's Anadol car</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We ended the day at Gulhane Park, which was ridiculously crowded but not all that surprising as tourist season has already started in Sultanahmet.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfuF0dQWkIWDUeKcz22nAnxYWZlFPsNy0qYElcQBwdsM3LraXjeeifCkGhRvjD-Wy7bS243UsV_IEoPyN3bPOkHbjClv1e1B7r5bs_KPgAoOpPzZkB0AjuRv7NjjRE0Y2xmqSL6RkW6ZM3/s1600/Gulhane+Park+Istanbul+spring+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfuF0dQWkIWDUeKcz22nAnxYWZlFPsNy0qYElcQBwdsM3LraXjeeifCkGhRvjD-Wy7bS243UsV_IEoPyN3bPOkHbjClv1e1B7r5bs_KPgAoOpPzZkB0AjuRv7NjjRE0Y2xmqSL6RkW6ZM3/s400/Gulhane+Park+Istanbul+spring+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crowded Gulhane Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuQKiG6eQMt1aUOAUQhUFd1iXMRONmAixxbgoWgFBdJ_dQ8eHFWGGXucTc91XmZ8WRAqlO-F5y5R_jh4YoSKHEceka5YuS6YJaDQS78Vd6wapiuZ1CdNVhOEWCZMIcuS5rR8FDZAvVyx0/s1600/Orange+yellow+tulips+Gulhane+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpuQKiG6eQMt1aUOAUQhUFd1iXMRONmAixxbgoWgFBdJ_dQ8eHFWGGXucTc91XmZ8WRAqlO-F5y5R_jh4YoSKHEceka5YuS6YJaDQS78Vd6wapiuZ1CdNVhOEWCZMIcuS5rR8FDZAvVyx0/s400/Orange+yellow+tulips+Gulhane+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orange and yellow tulips in Gulhane Park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
And that, most likely, is the last of my tulip posts for the year. I know, I know...say it ain't so!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MLuEH6ZhaCtE8yLXonVErayuQlLH2W0-R-R3VaG6KiILjPI0YdAo2blSMK_FjaVe9MWp35VHBCW2fXdogDG5a-1Dk0QZLiq4cumLHilrv_hhDwAzf2bIG8wWyOf1iGTsuZ3hBPI8dvSX/s1600/Sultanahmet+Istanbul+spring+variegated+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MLuEH6ZhaCtE8yLXonVErayuQlLH2W0-R-R3VaG6KiILjPI0YdAo2blSMK_FjaVe9MWp35VHBCW2fXdogDG5a-1Dk0QZLiq4cumLHilrv_hhDwAzf2bIG8wWyOf1iGTsuZ3hBPI8dvSX/s400/Sultanahmet+Istanbul+spring+variegated+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-55515361054997815462013-04-17T17:01:00.000+03:002013-04-17T17:01:03.906+03:00Yedikule Fortress and more tulips<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If it's any consolation, this is my second-to-last tulip post. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br />So, the Friday before last, I spent the afternoon with my Greek-American friend Eva and her family. Her mother is visiting from Greece, and she wanted to see the tulips before she heads back, so we went over to Yedikule, as I'd heard the park there had a large tulip display. We weren't completely sure of the park's name -- I'd seen it mentioned as <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">Soğanlı Bitkiler park in a newspaper article, but that doesn't generate a lot of Google hits, and when we got there, the sign said the International Peace Garden. According to the guard there, the park has three names, and hence the confusion.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYACU7YvoZZ0ZrWBflwqbuBUz5ybN2OK3smWS42XTD4vmYzV0_EM1o-E6J_5SCywtCN9z4aMAsggWY9sMatdDXPa5H2-SfRFFCwthAgXnI1YgftfgRrJNIocwLn1KiFcKl0tt-17YiKIO/s1600/Istanbul+Bosporus+Asian+side+pollution.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUYACU7YvoZZ0ZrWBflwqbuBUz5ybN2OK3smWS42XTD4vmYzV0_EM1o-E6J_5SCywtCN9z4aMAsggWY9sMatdDXPa5H2-SfRFFCwthAgXnI1YgftfgRrJNIocwLn1KiFcKl0tt-17YiKIO/s640/Istanbul+Bosporus+Asian+side+pollution.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tankers waiting in the Sea of Marmara...dear god, look at that pollution hanging over the Asian side of Istanbul!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">Despite its presence in a corner created by fast-moving roads, the park is gorgeous. The location is prime: it lies along the old city walls and across the way from the Sea of Marmara and a different park of pathways and grassy areas that hugs the shoreline. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">Soğanlı Bitki</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;">ler/International Peace Garden park sits along the Land Walls of Theodosius, a second set of city walls built by Emperor Theodosius II in the 400s to protect the burgeoning city of Constantinople. The walls stretched from here, on the Sea of Marmara, to the Golden Horn, enclosing the city, which at that time was basically limited to the peninsula.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dMtllBMAxd9JCBs8jqbvVF1ARyHGLNAKROz3ubR8COOye_4vqm1aaYSerHf9vxbCqMkvKmd04z_EOhZ8g9My69y-DAo-PYJoj-IrJKC20RDDNBUQ8Vc9NwF9auhzaM6xYB6-tkDtAfzQ/s1600/Istanbul+Yedikule+city+walls+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0dMtllBMAxd9JCBs8jqbvVF1ARyHGLNAKROz3ubR8COOye_4vqm1aaYSerHf9vxbCqMkvKmd04z_EOhZ8g9My69y-DAo-PYJoj-IrJKC20RDDNBUQ8Vc9NwF9auhzaM6xYB6-tkDtAfzQ/s400/Istanbul+Yedikule+city+walls+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVfsnXxyrV6QnxHCJkHsf5IFrE1Fcpf_47M8Ssyq6ry5cZ_kUjjBGG6ejRl2Wfpdyw6Lz08Ryr2a4iuxHL7PCEnDSrEY3qcEF9NMV8HHGTe_fvbGPYqerw5b-F0T8rr14LvyAVlg303pkb/s1600/Istanbul+Yedikule+fortress+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVfsnXxyrV6QnxHCJkHsf5IFrE1Fcpf_47M8Ssyq6ry5cZ_kUjjBGG6ejRl2Wfpdyw6Lz08Ryr2a4iuxHL7PCEnDSrEY3qcEF9NMV8HHGTe_fvbGPYqerw5b-F0T8rr14LvyAVlg303pkb/s400/Istanbul+Yedikule+fortress+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 18px;">By far the coolest thing about Istanbul is its somewhat forgotten, old historic bits like this -- I dig the fact that I live in a city with a castle and city walls that are just sort of </span><i style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 18px;">there</i><span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 18px;">. Visitors swarm the monuments in the old city like the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, but the Yedikule Fortress and the Land Walls of Theodosius mostly just sit there unbothered and observing. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ67Z3R8MX4s7dDYtm1LHlLYdwbv18sX97zyV5_0QXD7lwGobxeOTb43LVm5KFRQeOmlWcnji8x_5Tr2ynrlU0__9qQxD6T3ZBVH3BxkGTQ_H7AsvIGHg30vI5ksDV4aI8WVRvjEwUWugV/s1600/Tulips+Yedikule+Fortress+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ67Z3R8MX4s7dDYtm1LHlLYdwbv18sX97zyV5_0QXD7lwGobxeOTb43LVm5KFRQeOmlWcnji8x_5Tr2ynrlU0__9qQxD6T3ZBVH3BxkGTQ_H7AsvIGHg30vI5ksDV4aI8WVRvjEwUWugV/s640/Tulips+Yedikule+Fortress+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; line-height: 18px;">Although the park is relatively large, it's nothing compared to the length of the city walls. At the end of the park, you can more or less follow the line of walls and reach the Golden Gate (visible off in the distance) and the entrance to Yedikule Fortress. The fortress was built in the 1450s by conquering sultan Mehmet II, who smartly used the existing wall structure and just had three more towers built, creating an enclosed fortification. But alas, Yedikule Fortress was mostly used as a prison and execution site.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The fortress was unexpectedly closed when we were there, so we couldn't go in. [Huh, when we were there, the sign at the entry said Yedikule Fortress would be closed for two days, but a note on this recent newspaper article says it will be <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/news-312229-getting-to-know-istanbul-yedikule-the-forgotten-fortress.html">closed until further notice</a>.] I gather that the big attraction is the view and the fact that you're climbing on something that's 1600 years old. You can still climb up on the walls <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2011/10/climbing-walls-istanbul-design-week.html">at other spots, though</a>.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="line-height: 18px;">From there, we walked back to Eva's neighborhood, passing some lovely, if dilapidated, traditional wood houses along the way.</span><br />
<span style="line-height: 18px;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSy1KVpjonHQWcDR-ks1qoQrSS2RuMQuX7WundjjLoE1tvJ4EhyBWuTXEGtxsmIjQrEgFrsJK9vVAUMX3gEEwIwSUEvG3ZU9VNqbj_KO7A93pgtYk0j3whAsMSe5z2Erj6Jz5FjH-lYnhh/s1600/Istanbul+Yedikule+wooden+houses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSy1KVpjonHQWcDR-ks1qoQrSS2RuMQuX7WundjjLoE1tvJ4EhyBWuTXEGtxsmIjQrEgFrsJK9vVAUMX3gEEwIwSUEvG3ZU9VNqbj_KO7A93pgtYk0j3whAsMSe5z2Erj6Jz5FjH-lYnhh/s640/Istanbul+Yedikule+wooden+houses.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPWdqCrkY0XAxfohcOj9gOt33moIBHeywZWwVf8__r0w17SdGZ9vv1zKT8hoPuuous5nvkAWfAhyphenhyphenLds-cUsYnjdRQ2dcEnu5Zl48B_Y_1-9yPg2QDPNXU1I-kZg2hccvsinTKTCxmWsmVF/s1600/Istanbul+wood+house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPWdqCrkY0XAxfohcOj9gOt33moIBHeywZWwVf8__r0w17SdGZ9vv1zKT8hoPuuous5nvkAWfAhyphenhyphenLds-cUsYnjdRQ2dcEnu5Zl48B_Y_1-9yPg2QDPNXU1I-kZg2hccvsinTKTCxmWsmVF/s640/Istanbul+wood+house.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-89481000248967115922013-04-16T17:54:00.002+03:002013-04-16T17:54:50.076+03:00Yildiz Park and tulipsYes, yes, it's <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/03/emirgan-park-and-tulips.html">yet another</a> post<a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/04/goztepe-park-and-tulips.html"> about tulips</a>, though it's awfully hard to write about enjoying the outdoors right now as our weather has turned rainy and cold. Damn you, fickle spring!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ITpWIYgnMmFEUyhfYNocQ917QleH15H87BdkvhdFoUNyBgb4X19ndS186oflaswZdCi-IzlGROpYGjcb3sGAuqjXZ89_sgNM-GF10Q9w5OsStcpW4igsHFwTPoNe3uS8xJEOaIk1-uBA/s1600/Yildiz+Park+Istanbul+daisies.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ITpWIYgnMmFEUyhfYNocQ917QleH15H87BdkvhdFoUNyBgb4X19ndS186oflaswZdCi-IzlGROpYGjcb3sGAuqjXZ89_sgNM-GF10Q9w5OsStcpW4igsHFwTPoNe3uS8xJEOaIk1-uBA/s400/Yildiz+Park+Istanbul+daisies.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMZ2cBFsYsurw-MlzcPMcDpovQO__b0wanK8aq2ZgeIOdnb9LloCmf3_AQhHGLT5rKyXQLbnMtG3av4e8iIHB7q-pNgeXZGYCaLx5vdt9mTfqU_48KY4N76KmFlIQnyw8ZyasTRdSgegnL/s1600/Yildiz+park+Istanbul+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMZ2cBFsYsurw-MlzcPMcDpovQO__b0wanK8aq2ZgeIOdnb9LloCmf3_AQhHGLT5rKyXQLbnMtG3av4e8iIHB7q-pNgeXZGYCaLx5vdt9mTfqU_48KY4N76KmFlIQnyw8ZyasTRdSgegnL/s400/Yildiz+park+Istanbul+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
So, last weekend, we headed over to Yildiz Park in Besiktas for a wander among the flowers. We live fairly close to the park, and it seemed like an easy excursion on a day we didn't feel like doing much else.<br />
<br />
And because we wanted easy, we made the wise decision to start at the top on Palanga Street. The park slopes down dramatically to the waterfront, and I imagine it would have been a tiring climb if we'd gone the other direction. (If you go, start at the top, really -- trust me on this.)<br />
<br />
When the Ottomans were in power, Yildiz Park served as an imperial garden, first for Ciragan Palace along the Bosporus and then later for Sultan Abdulhamid II's newly constructed Yildiz palace within the park grounds. (In Turkish, the name actually translates to Yildiz Chalet, and according to Lonely Planet, it was the last sultan's palace to be built in Istanbul, in the late 1800s.)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPN6SY3S0yvxLZ44bcgvy5C1LKVR2GYasSmgGTnsFPLHXvcHZBE6SxIB_eu70D9HPJxHBuhQr6e_LgsvspPjmOAx74MpULC6dXDwf1R_iCfumShgLw_dku7rxZkC-0HBIsu0h5_DuBdwT/s1600/Malta+Kosku+decorative+ceiling+Yildiz+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnPN6SY3S0yvxLZ44bcgvy5C1LKVR2GYasSmgGTnsFPLHXvcHZBE6SxIB_eu70D9HPJxHBuhQr6e_LgsvspPjmOAx74MpULC6dXDwf1R_iCfumShgLw_dku7rxZkC-0HBIsu0h5_DuBdwT/s320/Malta+Kosku+decorative+ceiling+Yildiz+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jqiebLoEy_UL-mBAc6YS92h7HImnGNhrYCM4z0R7epHFWg_sjTRIcNBTjV04bBGPjKMQhbjLm42qTBCTARjgoHb0Yt9opz3D-pDeYpEzi4dk7GzSjUmGhXjpPKuF3l2l4KfNWlD2NXa-/s1600/Malta+Kosku+Yildiz+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9jqiebLoEy_UL-mBAc6YS92h7HImnGNhrYCM4z0R7epHFWg_sjTRIcNBTjV04bBGPjKMQhbjLm42qTBCTARjgoHb0Yt9opz3D-pDeYpEzi4dk7GzSjUmGhXjpPKuF3l2l4KfNWlD2NXa-/s320/Malta+Kosku+Yildiz+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We never actually got a look at Yildiz palace -- it's hidden behind a massive wall and foliage, and we decided not to pay to go in. But the park has a number of other lovely Ottoman buildings, and we wandered into the 1870-built Malta Kosku, where they were serving an open-to-the-public brunch. Fun fact -- After Sultan Abdulhamid II deposed his brother Murat V in 1876, he imprisoned him and his family here.<br />
<br />
The park was far more quiet than I expected, especially when compared to Emirgan Park, although perhaps that was due to the fact that it was overcast and a wee bit chilly the day we went. But at times, despite the cars throughout the park, I almost felt like I was wandering through the woods.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEe4dxAzi8iM0T0KZoiodHHbynWZirCkFxwqr1ukBX1EBkv6dPXE7-czESpxRjpHOlPA6cgto-nUAGKFf5dAp_4iG7zEa7BoUWs82fnZKyjMg40O3ufekX76-ex9YOkXIxlPJTMRmEEP8Q/s1600/Yildiz+Park+tulips+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEe4dxAzi8iM0T0KZoiodHHbynWZirCkFxwqr1ukBX1EBkv6dPXE7-czESpxRjpHOlPA6cgto-nUAGKFf5dAp_4iG7zEa7BoUWs82fnZKyjMg40O3ufekX76-ex9YOkXIxlPJTMRmEEP8Q/s400/Yildiz+Park+tulips+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9mIzOg1NeHRAihHhsjgOVsF1dItuBsU7QlVK3_txDGehqraAJfgC0T7LYQCjnZgFOIdKUXOVC7We1vatDYhRW_2_1NUizXaBbyG55WqixKaRdyrUDGEdBA6t49jnXf13vsEY3B5JzvZ7/s1600/Yildiz+Park+tulips+trees+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ9mIzOg1NeHRAihHhsjgOVsF1dItuBsU7QlVK3_txDGehqraAJfgC0T7LYQCjnZgFOIdKUXOVC7We1vatDYhRW_2_1NUizXaBbyG55WqixKaRdyrUDGEdBA6t49jnXf13vsEY3B5JzvZ7/s400/Yildiz+Park+tulips+trees+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
At some points, because of the slope, we caught glimpses of the Bosporus and Sultanahmet.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCR8Q6NKjmLuwEFwnSYrfUTBzgMce3ew6RSvD3DfQsICaiaZRl32KuzwmndwdOs15g1wGXdGOW6H18nX9TMQmV-Syivg4k_B8djN9KMI8VYGWQfAhsXNcChRz7ub_fMzNBGGfxPxAQ7Atv/s1600/Maiden's+Tower+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCR8Q6NKjmLuwEFwnSYrfUTBzgMce3ew6RSvD3DfQsICaiaZRl32KuzwmndwdOs15g1wGXdGOW6H18nX9TMQmV-Syivg4k_B8djN9KMI8VYGWQfAhsXNcChRz7ub_fMzNBGGfxPxAQ7Atv/s640/Maiden's+Tower+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
When we were <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/03/emirgan-park-and-tulips.html">in Emirgan Park</a> a couple of weeks ago, Cagatay and I were reminiscing about <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/06/amsterdam-trip-keukenhof-gardens-day.html">our trip to Holland last year</a>, and we speculated on whether anyone responsible for the tulip displays in Istanbul had gone there to study Keukenhof Gardens, arguably the world's premier tulip garden. And now, after strolling through Yildiz Park, I believe the answer to that question is yes -- at the southwest exit, there's a river of flowers that looks <a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/102034747777848602/">remarkably like the one in Holland</a>. :)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ijExSAq_VW6zr6-Trq_uvaO4er-LpchV6mx1PRTcIl3STxWHitAXDcuD5BS-aQvW0MOq7fZYOiW1rwBBYh-lVvPqI0n-83X-uIj5OrIvobfGr6eFdHJymv9n47c5uCbaMfjQ8qoZrp-q/s1600/Yildiz+Park+Istanbul+river+of+flowers+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ijExSAq_VW6zr6-Trq_uvaO4er-LpchV6mx1PRTcIl3STxWHitAXDcuD5BS-aQvW0MOq7fZYOiW1rwBBYh-lVvPqI0n-83X-uIj5OrIvobfGr6eFdHJymv9n47c5uCbaMfjQ8qoZrp-q/s640/Yildiz+Park+Istanbul+river+of+flowers+tulips.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-34670418686191785382013-04-06T19:42:00.000+03:002013-04-06T19:42:02.885+03:00An Istanbul football game<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_TSAOto5YXZv_0zSLTNiTaiLD8HLhSTw7STmimIbzkM2_ZLhfu3ROby8-tOzI4QZbfOWJQW930GlEdbcFU9grIvrNXeUZAVv0-vOWgoELLDIO4c8chnUzZZaHc59n4sHKxbQd-7-_WnMI/s1600/Turkey+Hungary+2014+World+Cup+match+istanbul.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_TSAOto5YXZv_0zSLTNiTaiLD8HLhSTw7STmimIbzkM2_ZLhfu3ROby8-tOzI4QZbfOWJQW930GlEdbcFU9grIvrNXeUZAVv0-vOWgoELLDIO4c8chnUzZZaHc59n4sHKxbQd-7-_WnMI/s320/Turkey+Hungary+2014+World+Cup+match+istanbul.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
As in almost every country in the world except for the US, soccer/football is a passion here in Turkey. I'd been jonesing to go to a game pretty much from the first moment I got here, but it never happened -- mostly because Cagatay is perpetually disappointed by the play of his team, Besiktas. (Of course, everyone here has a team that they're fiercely loyal to. Most towns have just one team, which usually sports the name of the city -- like Trabzonspor or Gaziantepspor -- but Istanbul has a bunch of teams, the most popular of which are Galatasaray, Fenerbahce and Besiktas. Last year, if you remember, we got caught outside in the mayhem following the <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/05/mother-of-all-derbies-fenerbahce-vs.html?showComment=1337666700369#c4453013739972687153">Fenerbahce-Galatasaray championship game</a>. But I digress...)<br />
<br />
So, finally, about a week and a half ago, we went to a game, after Cagatay's friend organized a big group to go see the Turkey-Hungary match at Fenerbahce's stadium, part of the 2014 World Cup qualifiers. We had great seats on the upper level, but sadly, the game itself was not that exciting -- it was pouring rain and neither team was able to do much with the ball. Play mostly hovered in the midfield, and the game ended 1-1, which means <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/turkey-meets-hungary-in-last-exit-before-brazil.aspx?pageID=238&nid=43628">Turkey probably won't qualify for the 2014 World Cup</a>.<br />
<br />
This outcome was not all that surprising as Turkey hasn't qualified for the World Cup in a decade. But what <i>did</i> surprise me was the enthusiasm of the fans, or lack of. People cheered, don't get me wrong, but usually you see <i>crazy</i> passion, and it's chaos with fans going nuts and throwing flares and other projectiles onto the field. Take the Galatasaray-Real Madrid match that took place in Spain this week -- a bunch of fans got into <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFw_rOUla64">a brutal fight with the police</a> while <a href="http://nesn.com/2013/04/turkish-soccer-fans-storm-television-station-after-pundits-predict-real-madrid-victory-video/">another group in Istanbul tried to attack a TV station supposedly because the commentators picked Real Madrid to win</a>. Passionate, no? But it wasn't like that at this game, it was just civilized cheering...and what can I say, I wanted to see a little of that famous energy. :)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYLbM81DazoTjdvSaIA9ZUkevXLmT84HcTA9FNkIx8O_674_XDFzbC4hyphenhyphenU7zLuTFsXiA10F25P4wp5GDZNvOpMn5G_djrfE5Rhs_XzIQg5FfvsfdwVyHnxF79S7qwQ-D5BkPKGoETlv2pQ/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYLbM81DazoTjdvSaIA9ZUkevXLmT84HcTA9FNkIx8O_674_XDFzbC4hyphenhyphenU7zLuTFsXiA10F25P4wp5GDZNvOpMn5G_djrfE5Rhs_XzIQg5FfvsfdwVyHnxF79S7qwQ-D5BkPKGoETlv2pQ/s400/photo.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-39916719539259798752013-04-05T19:51:00.000+03:002013-04-05T19:51:15.487+03:00Goztepe Park and tulipsYes, another tulip post. I'm sure this is how my hubby secretly feels, despite the fact that last weekend, I managed to convince him that he really wanted to go see the flowers at Goztepe Park on the Asian side. :)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRDg7nrgrGC7070lkcob-1Bi9WvSeveo8HiK6RFTH-vVLPVJC9nyQbhfta6Wv0uROi7EvuEbdWWGCeSY4wjiQRzGX2JpSkb6ben-jkHNarfZ71DK4Nww0LksTc0JIzHYWQvX-ys9XLqiBZ/s1600/Goztepe+Rose+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRDg7nrgrGC7070lkcob-1Bi9WvSeveo8HiK6RFTH-vVLPVJC9nyQbhfta6Wv0uROi7EvuEbdWWGCeSY4wjiQRzGX2JpSkb6ben-jkHNarfZ71DK4Nww0LksTc0JIzHYWQvX-ys9XLqiBZ/s640/Goztepe+Rose+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I'd never been over to Goztepe Park before, and after seeing how impressive it is, I'm a little sad that we don't live closer so that we could enjoy it more often. It might be the nicest park in the city. One chunk of it is a rose garden (which they were tearing up when we were there) while another chunk of it is your average city park with benches and winding pathways. This section had most of the tulips, but of course, those only last about a month out of the entire year. Then, farther on as you walk toward Bagdat Street, the park changes -- most of the flower beds give way to an (English-style?) hedge garden, and there's a huge pirate ship for kids. They're also in the process of building tennis courts and a fountain.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_wyvqGoK9BWFUatD-JxD1nzqUvQ-oykTnugpyD_85MNdSIEFBvVCo-00VJmt2iA6TkVR2B9h-mQxj09l_IsATsoR33c8Ck7rGTDOwgtME-VEgR8vQJUkJ0GIyNldrAtkFa0jy52MUMMs/s1600/Istanbul+Goztepe+Rose+Park+formal+garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_wyvqGoK9BWFUatD-JxD1nzqUvQ-oykTnugpyD_85MNdSIEFBvVCo-00VJmt2iA6TkVR2B9h-mQxj09l_IsATsoR33c8Ck7rGTDOwgtME-VEgR8vQJUkJ0GIyNldrAtkFa0jy52MUMMs/s640/Istanbul+Goztepe+Rose+Park+formal+garden.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Anyway, to the tulips...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63upogJBJ8crcy_pQYWrINH1rsatdQqYjVfSDA3No8IOq6kqkXLm0MsDPaQyojhrIoVR_NpWKJPn-rJSBqcPRdGCkviB8l4moh9xVM1vznnM4zz7v-s-ri7ccKa7KzZhXg3yGqnwcRYZh/s1600/Istanbul+Goztepe+Rose+Park+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg63upogJBJ8crcy_pQYWrINH1rsatdQqYjVfSDA3No8IOq6kqkXLm0MsDPaQyojhrIoVR_NpWKJPn-rJSBqcPRdGCkviB8l4moh9xVM1vznnM4zz7v-s-ri7ccKa7KzZhXg3yGqnwcRYZh/s400/Istanbul+Goztepe+Rose+Park+tulips.jpg" width="285" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrH9tBIT4yIpBIrLE1yyVrhSXZU8orH8hecocJ-38roLP__aOgOxoQ_VXhm2CMYegj4a8pcqWWrqGJ9aGfg4YwhhxxNcJYOZfAbl1Od8kgXfw_tQykYt0dVzoPnxc5UWWyv1YPRso6bRd/s1600/Orange+tulips+Istanbul+Goztepe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrH9tBIT4yIpBIrLE1yyVrhSXZU8orH8hecocJ-38roLP__aOgOxoQ_VXhm2CMYegj4a8pcqWWrqGJ9aGfg4YwhhxxNcJYOZfAbl1Od8kgXfw_tQykYt0dVzoPnxc5UWWyv1YPRso6bRd/s400/Orange+tulips+Istanbul+Goztepe.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdC1PZBKOUB8qUus-PRqCR27bJdrFm2qLKyB8d6iKKf4xu1UH_3XN0qrRYoQwvpppjBgZM9xfI-u3qVFz4cfXdbYSQUveNx7rJwUA2qSLtRRTpfeSj0_Sd-neW1SRCATnxUoaW-ORnbgCP/s1600/Close-up+orange+tulips+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdC1PZBKOUB8qUus-PRqCR27bJdrFm2qLKyB8d6iKKf4xu1UH_3XN0qrRYoQwvpppjBgZM9xfI-u3qVFz4cfXdbYSQUveNx7rJwUA2qSLtRRTpfeSj0_Sd-neW1SRCATnxUoaW-ORnbgCP/s640/Close-up+orange+tulips+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FRlz_jPH0fw7YcjhyphenhyphenglHDbId6UEuT69UKHQloYOdW3dyiFTWS3_ellX5H9Efnjn6rhclpEzKziuWAq6n4W5b1cRjmnxeCORcltUDAsUr3hH_i8FSKP6BelVY8wniiSprt7sIBIM8pYOB/s1600/Orange+tulips+from+above+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4FRlz_jPH0fw7YcjhyphenhyphenglHDbId6UEuT69UKHQloYOdW3dyiFTWS3_ellX5H9Efnjn6rhclpEzKziuWAq6n4W5b1cRjmnxeCORcltUDAsUr3hH_i8FSKP6BelVY8wniiSprt7sIBIM8pYOB/s400/Orange+tulips+from+above+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz1EvOWf3BgOCDPkBF569jeZhg_JUlTBwX_lXsOV18rhZfBOKBr00jBqhNTTVyVA0b0xZE2mpr3tebMJstwOvoCm3cE5xD_mU1ocVe7Szy5QTodeX0PyonQPws2eDrZs5KxyDU9j6FEqPV/s1600/Pink+tulips+Istanbul+Goztepe+Rose+Park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz1EvOWf3BgOCDPkBF569jeZhg_JUlTBwX_lXsOV18rhZfBOKBr00jBqhNTTVyVA0b0xZE2mpr3tebMJstwOvoCm3cE5xD_mU1ocVe7Szy5QTodeX0PyonQPws2eDrZs5KxyDU9j6FEqPV/s400/Pink+tulips+Istanbul+Goztepe+Rose+Park.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Most of the tulips I've seen in Istanbul have been the full-bodied ones, as in the photos above. I think it's fair to say that this is the shape most people think of when they think of tulips. But Goztepe Park also had some of the pointed tulips that are most commonly associated with the Ottomans -- and these are the type of tulips I most often think of when I think of Istanbul. While they're not all that common in gardens, you see the pointed tulip used everywhere in design, from a<a href="http://pinterest.com/pin/181481059956642305/"> motif on historic Ottoman tiles</a> to <a href="http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/spor/digersporlar/21041772.asp">Istanbul's 2020 Olympic logo</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKWT_9HcLd8KgtrXyjwZUFYwu4GkAZlaKsW7i_G6_RBBehFtlracBS0FKO_TvCuZ4j0s5sqKUb9vYGZEcCK-kc3YGoIfKEXl3OcZMSO2JcymGXfl6nUjYN5x2R4hejPQkR84qxuGOqiaN/s1600/Lale+traditional+Istanbul+pointed+tulip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgKWT_9HcLd8KgtrXyjwZUFYwu4GkAZlaKsW7i_G6_RBBehFtlracBS0FKO_TvCuZ4j0s5sqKUb9vYGZEcCK-kc3YGoIfKEXl3OcZMSO2JcymGXfl6nUjYN5x2R4hejPQkR84qxuGOqiaN/s400/Lale+traditional+Istanbul+pointed+tulip.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTu8AbLbLoQEO1Y1OSKWu33mrQo1PM-WplHjWrBFjmlyBNK1MXySWqE_kSUm8JqOWl98TuOPv8DTla6deyqf_oLsaxsr7_TNrq4PVR4bGZQ1jdgubpOMpTTjIyNpd3V5APEo2FxcRZIZD/s1600/Traditional+Istanbul+pointed+tulip+lale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTu8AbLbLoQEO1Y1OSKWu33mrQo1PM-WplHjWrBFjmlyBNK1MXySWqE_kSUm8JqOWl98TuOPv8DTla6deyqf_oLsaxsr7_TNrq4PVR4bGZQ1jdgubpOMpTTjIyNpd3V5APEo2FxcRZIZD/s400/Traditional+Istanbul+pointed+tulip+lale.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Across the street from the garden we spotted a beautiful traditional-style Istanbul house -- a konak. <span style="font-family: inherit;">"<span style="background-color: white;">The wooden houses of Istanbul, built in large part in the second half of the 19th century and the early years of the 20th century, are of two major types: <a href="http://www.fao.org/docrep/q1460e/q1460e05.htm">the konak</a> and the row house. The konak, the older building form, is a single family town house surrounded by a garden. These gardens form an essential part of the spatial and architectural programme." There aren't a lot of these types of buildings left, which is a shame as they're so lovely.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9xBHZV-KoXkYsfUsaWGNbWk6MjROVzGdq7Niuv_ULje5KOHV1SShI2aGTTQfBsSRqZwINWneFE7eJzOdli9bjsVMrdaUbD9bQC_ZxNzbhZX_tMYRm3uifDQ_gr5v9PgXAXqfNjcsTY9ET/s1600/Konak+house+traditional+Istanbul+architecture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9xBHZV-KoXkYsfUsaWGNbWk6MjROVzGdq7Niuv_ULje5KOHV1SShI2aGTTQfBsSRqZwINWneFE7eJzOdli9bjsVMrdaUbD9bQC_ZxNzbhZX_tMYRm3uifDQ_gr5v9PgXAXqfNjcsTY9ET/s400/Konak+house+traditional+Istanbul+architecture.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-75453003124490153002013-03-28T14:39:00.001+02:002013-03-28T14:39:13.882+02:00Emirgan Park and tulips<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NOnSmlKCZQ1xhtWchc4RvdwFF624MTLGVrLmiyrK2D0J4EouC0hFEpT8QHxK56wcErVaXIu58BO-KiMeiX2ggQDHUVGS1qijie3BwQFXroV0nHeoa8SdlODA76wbJXhpkvlxlDa0S6P4/s1600/Emirgan+Park+Istanbul+red+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NOnSmlKCZQ1xhtWchc4RvdwFF624MTLGVrLmiyrK2D0J4EouC0hFEpT8QHxK56wcErVaXIu58BO-KiMeiX2ggQDHUVGS1qijie3BwQFXroV0nHeoa8SdlODA76wbJXhpkvlxlDa0S6P4/s320/Emirgan+Park+Istanbul+red+tulips.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Since <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2013/03/it-might-be-spring.html">the tulips have flowered in Besiktas</a>, it seemed reasonable that the tulips in Emirgan Park were also out, so on Sunday, I dragged my loving husband around to look at pretty flowers. (Poor guy, he also had to go through this last year, both <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/06/amsterdam-trip-keukenhof-gardens-day.html">in Holland</a> and <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/04/sultanahmet-tulips.html">twice</a> in <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/06/istanbuls-tulips-emirgan-park.html">Istanbul</a>.)<br />
<br />
Although the tulip is generally associated with Holland, the flower originates in Central Asia and was beloved by the Ottoman sultans. It's thought that <a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/86041/Augier-Ghislain-de-Busbecq">the tulip actually came to Holland</a> via <a href="http://penelope.uchicago.edu/~grout/encyclopaedia_romana/aconite/busbecq.html">Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq</a>, the Holy Roman Empire's ambassador to Constantinople in the mid-1500s.<br />
<br />
For almost the last decade, the Istanbul municipality has embraced this history every year with a tulip festival held the month of April. Last year, <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/news-276717-115-million-tulips-decorate-istanbul-in-colorful-festival.html">the city planted 11.5 million tulips across the city, at a cost of nearly $1.5 million</a>. This year, the municipality is also celebrating with the <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/everything-about-tulips-in-a-museum.aspx?pageID=238&nid=43382">opening of a tulip museum at Emirgan Park</a> on April 7.<br />
<br />
Although the tulip festival doesn't actually start until April 1, there's no holding the flowers back, and there were a number of tulips in bloom when we were at the park on Sunday. It was also abundantly clear that the park wasn't quite ready for visitors -- there were a number of muddy spots, and gardeners were busily planting (or re-planting?) some sections.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3b8dIygmlj787i5AKSNXKOs9RU-28NTIjPECd_MUsSW3xZ8o8ph-K4WXB6QrciMtHQhKetoj8cALGnySe9jCd2z3sphFZR4fzqe7tsm-P6GNpUldqZhxAx1tb78MJ7nK-5cxXOBGXh2O0/s1600/muddy+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3b8dIygmlj787i5AKSNXKOs9RU-28NTIjPECd_MUsSW3xZ8o8ph-K4WXB6QrciMtHQhKetoj8cALGnySe9jCd2z3sphFZR4fzqe7tsm-P6GNpUldqZhxAx1tb78MJ7nK-5cxXOBGXh2O0/s400/muddy+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCv2HvD3l-rTreuFkbAdf9MLYGt83VPfSXb6pefA7B7bCGQUneZ5X_7LW2E2MejCcaZvElrvxwE_6VSRXL4hTrOJhPo29OCiSjXdCkTrutnn_ORxBqsdnYLQH-48oOeSeSKaqHj6Q-g1Zt/s1600/Istanbul+Emirgan+Park+spring+tulips.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCv2HvD3l-rTreuFkbAdf9MLYGt83VPfSXb6pefA7B7bCGQUneZ5X_7LW2E2MejCcaZvElrvxwE_6VSRXL4hTrOJhPo29OCiSjXdCkTrutnn_ORxBqsdnYLQH-48oOeSeSKaqHj6Q-g1Zt/s400/Istanbul+Emirgan+Park+spring+tulips.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
But still, it was lovely, and the park was delightfully serene. There aren't a lot of green spots in Istanbul, and it was just so nice to wander along the paths under the trees.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRaZzSpmC91CFkuZ11WwGrBobjkqwgDpdKIob1CHei0_Y683RUPVXMw00D2hgnYonb-XgkOViTrtVhc__Ys-zr21Cyr9tfzvk2pf9bBv_y07MzQ5uab53FtJhJIk85zavI4mwnC58Y8Iz/s1600/Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfRaZzSpmC91CFkuZ11WwGrBobjkqwgDpdKIob1CHei0_Y683RUPVXMw00D2hgnYonb-XgkOViTrtVhc__Ys-zr21Cyr9tfzvk2pf9bBv_y07MzQ5uab53FtJhJIk85zavI4mwnC58Y8Iz/s400/Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwWMOwxJEb203WbWvh4D23ptY1LfQzJn9NFzCQG0Oh_MtNQl-hmhSs0XpJrcTbApy7INgmAWWKMVdDepFyhET5xcD0qLMhSrwUZPBXdTwn5BBcr3o_VaOoL0HsIq8k_q2Wr6p-ex_3WkxW/s1600/Tulip+budding+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwWMOwxJEb203WbWvh4D23ptY1LfQzJn9NFzCQG0Oh_MtNQl-hmhSs0XpJrcTbApy7INgmAWWKMVdDepFyhET5xcD0qLMhSrwUZPBXdTwn5BBcr3o_VaOoL0HsIq8k_q2Wr6p-ex_3WkxW/s400/Tulip+budding+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
In addition to the "regular" batches of tulips planted along the pathways, Emirgan Park also has a couple of special flower arrangements. Last year, there were some tulips planted in the shape of tulips, the Turkish flag and the evil eye. This year, the Turkish flag plot had been converted into a map of Turkey while the evil eye became a <a href="http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/roadshow/tips/islamictiles.html">cintamani</a>.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKfs4fXAT6M_43ffRZlnIWw49402h1DkmlUEMEPTwwXA7xGnbcoByuFEabrfDjLsFpVKwLnyM8mmbDnWY_nPXfs9A1oELQc6M8awe4crjxiOQ0uMzXjlFpbyBpwM8F32lkxjP6EtLMxXX/s1600/Cintamani+design+Emigan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdKfs4fXAT6M_43ffRZlnIWw49402h1DkmlUEMEPTwwXA7xGnbcoByuFEabrfDjLsFpVKwLnyM8mmbDnWY_nPXfs9A1oELQc6M8awe4crjxiOQ0uMzXjlFpbyBpwM8F32lkxjP6EtLMxXX/s640/Cintamani+design+Emigan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I also saw a squirrel! Now, I know this doesn't seem like a big thing, but I have never seen a squirrel in Istanbul. It was like sighting a unicorn -- parents stopped to point out this one lone squirrel to their kids, and the little kids were watching it with wide eyes, it was very cute.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qV0qgT7qUAc6Uw9QDH9JnOciBLm7GahDiNqdOaQgxHMTurRMg2VbRwHuF8q6YhDRq6X4PCSXTH3WcfnPjD2tYB0Qg-zrs7gVk06x_mYFJ8O_iPHTVA0rsyHPB47jH5PTNVmewHIPPb-x/s1600/Turkish+squirrel+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qV0qgT7qUAc6Uw9QDH9JnOciBLm7GahDiNqdOaQgxHMTurRMg2VbRwHuF8q6YhDRq6X4PCSXTH3WcfnPjD2tYB0Qg-zrs7gVk06x_mYFJ8O_iPHTVA0rsyHPB47jH5PTNVmewHIPPb-x/s640/Turkish+squirrel+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
There were also bees...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVWjDXpOLDGNIt54Ikfj4vzmlYsgXRog5tWg2mXqFI_utHJnKTeYaYA-Z_SASNHqWQ86YiXXtz9td0vJkKWHFxwZlHVVlG4HMfu0Wj9AWGGblLA0DW42LeJSOnwM30is6JI_NYvCJJYkK/s1600/Bee+Blue+Grape+Hyacinth+Emirgan+Park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVWjDXpOLDGNIt54Ikfj4vzmlYsgXRog5tWg2mXqFI_utHJnKTeYaYA-Z_SASNHqWQ86YiXXtz9td0vJkKWHFxwZlHVVlG4HMfu0Wj9AWGGblLA0DW42LeJSOnwM30is6JI_NYvCJJYkK/s400/Bee+Blue+Grape+Hyacinth+Emirgan+Park.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGQXfWZbmYWIFzabG2-rkiwJwNMZU8n4qqMLut8MSpfIcSz51tf8lHtsHlyTpCU-bkwKobSQUIbM2DDHAq9D3pqMFcIfsqojKNj3RmFlPUuvWOiCCqtFPBxJdWTlRORwugqIBsFuN45wrC/s1600/Bee+on+Blue+Grape+Hyacinth+Emirgan+Park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGQXfWZbmYWIFzabG2-rkiwJwNMZU8n4qqMLut8MSpfIcSz51tf8lHtsHlyTpCU-bkwKobSQUIbM2DDHAq9D3pqMFcIfsqojKNj3RmFlPUuvWOiCCqtFPBxJdWTlRORwugqIBsFuN45wrC/s400/Bee+on+Blue+Grape+Hyacinth+Emirgan+Park.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
When we were at Emirgan Park last spring, there were a number of brides and grooms there to take their photos among the tulips, and this year, even early in the season, it was the same. [The red wedding dress is unusual, by the way -- I have never seen a non-white wedding dress here before. The veil/hood is a religious style, functioning as a head scarf.]<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxegFc0cRatc_OtSCW_Y9h2MaZcIB2zOQfa7zQu-0cPI3ec7sBr2dxHlDM8cZ_18PbQAkVfzxpX_PE6jMZmWa8ypFgWsuIxUnLnOyGtOlqBYttPBxr2AFWmlCtHvWZHRxc9xwM6E6mEcvj/s1600/Emirgan+Park+brides+wedding+dress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="419" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxegFc0cRatc_OtSCW_Y9h2MaZcIB2zOQfa7zQu-0cPI3ec7sBr2dxHlDM8cZ_18PbQAkVfzxpX_PE6jMZmWa8ypFgWsuIxUnLnOyGtOlqBYttPBxr2AFWmlCtHvWZHRxc9xwM6E6mEcvj/s640/Emirgan+Park+brides+wedding+dress.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Some last Emirgan Park tulip photos...<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliHIH6J1_KpnMzeoRBPUcW979sKR3SLYujLz9cPhezlWQySi6Xk8nN6sA2Ap8HCyDqIpm20yujaoyOqcAJ_HFaWssUGksz7GiMbovVPgGbK3f1mSYloglXGJCPU9iyphPL1v2OLYqSEj0/s1600/Emirgan+Park+Istanbul+Turkey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliHIH6J1_KpnMzeoRBPUcW979sKR3SLYujLz9cPhezlWQySi6Xk8nN6sA2Ap8HCyDqIpm20yujaoyOqcAJ_HFaWssUGksz7GiMbovVPgGbK3f1mSYloglXGJCPU9iyphPL1v2OLYqSEj0/s640/Emirgan+Park+Istanbul+Turkey.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkzZWzCa0nNNx6lZlBrrteyj7z4SPdpMAQuBm7qGJQzo3PFf6n3YMaGoiNa_I_LsIwL0BI_6gRdL88AbVY3fGjoN1xEsglAiK_nAzceZS_BGI4tYua7Ms2_IJjtz0lSO7GzYxlvcj0avo/s1600/red+tulips+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrkzZWzCa0nNNx6lZlBrrteyj7z4SPdpMAQuBm7qGJQzo3PFf6n3YMaGoiNa_I_LsIwL0BI_6gRdL88AbVY3fGjoN1xEsglAiK_nAzceZS_BGI4tYua7Ms2_IJjtz0lSO7GzYxlvcj0avo/s640/red+tulips+Emirgan+Park+Istanbul.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQpyD8ucMvP-4Vl_PZWWI_2ctoEoPasK2pmXNnHpeC872OKkqQtFK8i01lQS7IMY0WtiV4hXj7U-0wJUVT7E0Wyz15skkXjtheU_ZiKCsFSyUBs-_lyfTB3kffOtjHVA7luSD5lyv_uC1/s1600/Us.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQpyD8ucMvP-4Vl_PZWWI_2ctoEoPasK2pmXNnHpeC872OKkqQtFK8i01lQS7IMY0WtiV4hXj7U-0wJUVT7E0Wyz15skkXjtheU_ZiKCsFSyUBs-_lyfTB3kffOtjHVA7luSD5lyv_uC1/s640/Us.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: start;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: start;">How cool is this Istanbul Trees and Landscape logo? I love the Istanbul landmarks coming out of the tree.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioK8geS5NmxG03jsQF6uRSytHKQta5L07a-xrixFRkH5RFuW7KwatwTCFPSdKDdzbyJU7FcThASHWni3_w4BmPLu21tl5HModYwDiKzg4m6egEO_5RkkM0kgMb251NIdnORfni4036_-55/s1600/Istanbul+Trees+and+Landscape+logo.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="524" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioK8geS5NmxG03jsQF6uRSytHKQta5L07a-xrixFRkH5RFuW7KwatwTCFPSdKDdzbyJU7FcThASHWni3_w4BmPLu21tl5HModYwDiKzg4m6egEO_5RkkM0kgMb251NIdnORfni4036_-55/s640/Istanbul+Trees+and+Landscape+logo.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
There are a number of places to see the tulips in Istanbul, by the way. In addition to Emirgan Park, there's also<span style="font-family: inherit;"> <span style="background-color: white;">Soğanlı Park (by the old city walls near the Panorama 1453 museum), Gulhane Park in Sultanahmet, Yildiz Park in Besiktas, and the Goztepe Rose Garden on the Asian side, among others.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span>
After we left Emirgan Park, we walked along the Bosporus for awhile. The weather wasn't especially warm, but it was more than pleasant in the sun. It was just so great to be out along the water -- a stroll along the Bosporus alone is worth coming to Istanbul for.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZjr453Drte0zrjohvH6yfoBm4LCI7ffaavFXCLhlY5z1nMXha2jimUzF6Y9bOGSvE9ixq_UFEVy2Pfo-1SIqbUeRafNmjFk_aG-EGv727Vi6uQgl1TIPI4bmLDUsoIq0AhDrlwOQOopG/s1600/Emirgan+neighborhood+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKZjr453Drte0zrjohvH6yfoBm4LCI7ffaavFXCLhlY5z1nMXha2jimUzF6Y9bOGSvE9ixq_UFEVy2Pfo-1SIqbUeRafNmjFk_aG-EGv727Vi6uQgl1TIPI4bmLDUsoIq0AhDrlwOQOopG/s640/Emirgan+neighborhood+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnlsoORrNhsZvolOTPK4RavFbDxuLRb5qOe4NkDLyVrzpscCMnQvimDiIVRjabKX8yeaLMep20hcFcQZmddSguMEpoiYvd64Xuu2nz6J1xvmPr1EdJGDB9TQ7MlYp-yIQEQjvhFF226Op/s1600/Fishing+street+dog+Istanbul+Bosporus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNnlsoORrNhsZvolOTPK4RavFbDxuLRb5qOe4NkDLyVrzpscCMnQvimDiIVRjabKX8yeaLMep20hcFcQZmddSguMEpoiYvd64Xuu2nz6J1xvmPr1EdJGDB9TQ7MlYp-yIQEQjvhFF226Op/s640/Fishing+street+dog+Istanbul+Bosporus.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfBe4svGM41kRxqDa3ukK23sDyKl0wYWEg1rE3rZ3GlqWLssNxxIlnBcQv5QaIgltUapXTNtlh-sgBiC5pHN2Vd1jiUSSyP-P0Fil-ybKyOpgkgeOKCoRG-FrEC2uHHuC1JniUR6y8e3M/s1600/Istanbul+Bosporus+bridge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfBe4svGM41kRxqDa3ukK23sDyKl0wYWEg1rE3rZ3GlqWLssNxxIlnBcQv5QaIgltUapXTNtlh-sgBiC5pHN2Vd1jiUSSyP-P0Fil-ybKyOpgkgeOKCoRG-FrEC2uHHuC1JniUR6y8e3M/s640/Istanbul+Bosporus+bridge.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-18062630564355991482013-03-28T12:55:00.001+02:002013-04-05T19:55:28.794+03:00Photos of Istanbul -- Galata Bridge and Galata<span style="font-family: inherit;">In the last year or two, I've noticed that my memory has been going, especially for words and names of places -- I suspect that it may be from trying to learn Turkish and always being surrounded by a second language, though a doctor told me it might stem from the stress/depression of living in another country. Whatever the reason, I guess I really shouldn't be surprised that I forgot that I'd taken photos on our various outings across the city in March. :)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">One Saturday, we ventured over to Eminonu and my favorite shopping spot, the<span style="background-color: white;"> <span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><a href="http://myturkishjoys.blogspot.com/2011/10/knitting-randomness-in-istanbul.html">Kürkcu Han</a> (furrier's building), where they sell hundreds of colors and styles of yarn for cheap. (Seriously cheap -- one American-sized skein of acrylic yarn is about 80 cents.) As usual, Eminonu was incredibly crowded, so we ended up walking across the Galata Bridge and over to the Tunel tram in order to get home.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAs83fGrjSJ4GU-0AUUDwCIiwVYOqatFUKGG9GicB9XbEeE_ZfJC09pnvfU5Vfsw0VIupKPETJw93C2aEzVzKivMUb17kP4GFTJQ6diq3LQ5NrpcJAiQsyhdAchmnw4AYoFn3c2kpsiMuT/s1600/Eminonu+Istanbul+crowds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAs83fGrjSJ4GU-0AUUDwCIiwVYOqatFUKGG9GicB9XbEeE_ZfJC09pnvfU5Vfsw0VIupKPETJw93C2aEzVzKivMUb17kP4GFTJQ6diq3LQ5NrpcJAiQsyhdAchmnw4AYoFn3c2kpsiMuT/s400/Eminonu+Istanbul+crowds.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">People always say that walking across the Galata Bridge is an Istanbul must-do, but I don't get it. The bridge is usually crowded with pedestrians, and you have to dodge the fishermen swinging their lines around -- one of my biggest fears when we walk along the water, be it on the bridge or on the Bosporus, is getting speared with a fishing hook. This isn't like being afraid of zombies -- it could totally happen.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2LUj6GVg-M2VjaZJtVJUzST189v19OzzMCnqbZMkEcVo0rt5JpvKiUPdyO7ybe8CbyEQZP_6r6omYyD0Nj0VIs7_v1VG4T3zVu75FSN-m7ijZjkrkiG75saitjGVoVPy-MniBY4DKSZG/s1600/Galata+Bridge+Istanbul+fishermen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2LUj6GVg-M2VjaZJtVJUzST189v19OzzMCnqbZMkEcVo0rt5JpvKiUPdyO7ybe8CbyEQZP_6r6omYyD0Nj0VIs7_v1VG4T3zVu75FSN-m7ijZjkrkiG75saitjGVoVPy-MniBY4DKSZG/s400/Galata+Bridge+Istanbul+fishermen.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsqulQXdgYm3T-3x5RPTeOAu7LP0U6B-8sOk3KKeCdycA20AwwLgpQ4kBJzyzCQetyBOyRQzpshmcOuWHwSExnav-PRhkqnMR6vyirViMbWkQwHU02ORBCrLWEmWnrvt7E1fIBcESfALUg/s1600/Galata+Bridge+fish+catch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsqulQXdgYm3T-3x5RPTeOAu7LP0U6B-8sOk3KKeCdycA20AwwLgpQ4kBJzyzCQetyBOyRQzpshmcOuWHwSExnav-PRhkqnMR6vyirViMbWkQwHU02ORBCrLWEmWnrvt7E1fIBcESfALUg/s400/Galata+Bridge+fish+catch.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From the Galata Bridge, you can clearly see the controversial new metro bridge that's going up across the Golden Horn. I'm impressed by how quickly it's gone up, and reports say that <a href="http://en.haberler.com/construction-of-halic-metro-bridge-nearly-complete-257374/">it will be finished in May</a>.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdO4D8EasfZchBYA5WXeh-W3GpTNC8D7uHUQ-p1cSWiNIHjNL8BTYYGwjWLrj-m4rv1KkZ1o-F1Sp-BoMgP_aT0fIHg8GcnDRix7nGjjgWD5RD0uGT2HTZg1lZlbbI5etusS9SIsGaXBk2/s1600/Metro+Bridge+over+Golden+Horn+Istanbul.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdO4D8EasfZchBYA5WXeh-W3GpTNC8D7uHUQ-p1cSWiNIHjNL8BTYYGwjWLrj-m4rv1KkZ1o-F1Sp-BoMgP_aT0fIHg8GcnDRix7nGjjgWD5RD0uGT2HTZg1lZlbbI5etusS9SIsGaXBk2/s640/Metro+Bridge+over+Golden+Horn+Istanbul.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Istanbul was originally built <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_hills_of_Istanbul">on seven hills</a>, and as you walk around the city, you feel it. There are a lot of steep inclines and 100-step staircases. To help out the population, there are also two funiculars on the European side. The one at Tunel is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C3%BCnel">world's second-oldest underground train</a>, opened in 1875.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlBsZj97weDZSgsCYGlEw0ZGWVf8_hY69Yvza7Rjg-DBM4hwjKhf7Ik0QdGsFFXBLYQz88n4KZCsmSTYbFqiGDY_tY28kwnJrH0aX7Ke6SVRhMUrI94Tncs4dXBsJF9Pmgtk6CGtp8GhT/s1600/Istanbul+Tunel+tram.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlBsZj97weDZSgsCYGlEw0ZGWVf8_hY69Yvza7Rjg-DBM4hwjKhf7Ik0QdGsFFXBLYQz88n4KZCsmSTYbFqiGDY_tY28kwnJrH0aX7Ke6SVRhMUrI94Tncs4dXBsJF9Pmgtk6CGtp8GhT/s640/Istanbul+Tunel+tram.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Another Saturday, we ventured over to Galata, home to the famous Galata Tower and one of Istanbul's loveliest neighborhoods. The area is usually pretty crowded with tourists visiting the tower, but I really love wandering down the side streets and ducking into the cute little shops. We also had lunch at one of my favorite spots, the delightfully charming <a href="http://www.santraldukkan.com.tr/tr/kafe.html">Santral Dukkan</a>.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrGY0cyAndLQd_El3gRH-onxidOQtw9iTNboAxSfv5rLD5m439EyS0r8j3qSm880dL8sVcpOBMa-pbaY8H51XGbCjXWKj_gIBFKKX3-WQVlBFynSPi4VdAsw5kMEtk7zcaa8cVFPnkkdz/s1600/Galata+Tower+Istanbul+landmark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUrGY0cyAndLQd_El3gRH-onxidOQtw9iTNboAxSfv5rLD5m439EyS0r8j3qSm880dL8sVcpOBMa-pbaY8H51XGbCjXWKj_gIBFKKX3-WQVlBFynSPi4VdAsw5kMEtk7zcaa8cVFPnkkdz/s640/Galata+Tower+Istanbul+landmark.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMg1hMnB0lnyNuPe4-NHT392zLjgdGvukTRmX6yabc_gxxgt_7l3Xwncfv2c5gTg8Bdg0__4GDUAaQEw35Dqczy3c3yDMGqMySn6DNDeWYb3yrTJ2srh705y-YsdVvPY0VB9XMIVZoR5qo/s1600/Galata+mosaic+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMg1hMnB0lnyNuPe4-NHT392zLjgdGvukTRmX6yabc_gxxgt_7l3Xwncfv2c5gTg8Bdg0__4GDUAaQEw35Dqczy3c3yDMGqMySn6DNDeWYb3yrTJ2srh705y-YsdVvPY0VB9XMIVZoR5qo/s640/Galata+mosaic+Istanbul.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs4kdyNwxPPrJebKvdFah_i6kasaYZD84nh2z71-pRXnBW6ua0LOG3SBs6p57i8B1_juDE0nHjtYE2DM2fuMH_TNw5VtZtOq3fU6i-DBH48mdN8vNnv1EmAgmeK6QVrxsK7OjjrNz2igb2/s1600/Conan+O'Brien+graffiti+Istanbul+Galata.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs4kdyNwxPPrJebKvdFah_i6kasaYZD84nh2z71-pRXnBW6ua0LOG3SBs6p57i8B1_juDE0nHjtYE2DM2fuMH_TNw5VtZtOq3fU6i-DBH48mdN8vNnv1EmAgmeK6QVrxsK7OjjrNz2igb2/s640/Conan+O'Brien+graffiti+Istanbul+Galata.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The graffiti is on the same street as Santral Dukkan, </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNu3lkrndpwkDD9Tja7pss6Q4KKb9daH8z0qfep331PIJEG38u_TLYnzY92guFp0rvvGGyj24_EemPnfmCbuv-CVaB0QIifqFYvDU3cH9VjorsIRpUgsdVQGFnMlrxSwqU_rH58VPlJVu/s1600/Stormtrooper+graffiti+Galata+Istanbul+Serdar-i+Ekrem+Sokak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNu3lkrndpwkDD9Tja7pss6Q4KKb9daH8z0qfep331PIJEG38u_TLYnzY92guFp0rvvGGyj24_EemPnfmCbuv-CVaB0QIifqFYvDU3cH9VjorsIRpUgsdVQGFnMlrxSwqU_rH58VPlJVu/s400/Stormtrooper+graffiti+Galata+Istanbul+Serdar-i+Ekrem+Sokak.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeV5Zabf46GrLyyyTCVHZHS9WkgluwT8MsEqIL8T0TSHT5ifrmWJlrn9Th56wKZp_2BY_Bj8SdNq4DoJvVPGv8c24PpXsiCCTbg8JKuOmG6pVm17tU5VXPvknP9IRUyn8shLaQZr478yH/s1600/Galata+Tower+Istanbul.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeV5Zabf46GrLyyyTCVHZHS9WkgluwT8MsEqIL8T0TSHT5ifrmWJlrn9Th56wKZp_2BY_Bj8SdNq4DoJvVPGv8c24PpXsiCCTbg8JKuOmG6pVm17tU5VXPvknP9IRUyn8shLaQZr478yH/s400/Galata+Tower+Istanbul.jpg" width="300" /></a><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: #fbfbfb; color: #222222; line-height: 21px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span>Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-39998155421889788512013-03-24T11:29:00.001+02:002013-04-19T10:56:15.162+03:00Nevruz Cease-fireIt's officially spring, kids. Regardless of the weather, March 21 marks the beginning of the season each year, and in Turkey, it's also the date of Nevruz, the Kurdish New Year. Nevruz is an exclusively Kurdish holiday in this country, and it's generally associated with protests and violence. As this year's State Department security warning said, "Historically, members of the Kurdistan Workers' Party (PKK) have used these celebrations to incite violence in order to provoke a response from Turkish authorities." For a long time, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/the-stupidity-of-banning-newroz-.aspx?pageID=238&nid=16465">Nevruz celebrations were simply banned</a>, and then last year, there was <a href="http://turkishlydelightful.blogspot.com/2012/04/this-week-in-turkey-wrapping-up-week-of.html">a row over what date the celebrations would be held</a>, and the celebrations turned violent.<br />
<br />
But this year, Nevruz ended up being a monumental day in Turkey, as the head of the PKK, Abdullah Ocalan, <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/newsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=310318">called for a cease-fire and told his armed forces to withdraw from the country</a> -- he said that it was <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/pkk-leader-tells-militants-to-leave-turkey-in-nevruz-message.aspx?pageID=238&nID=43373&NewsCatID=338">time to exchange guns for politics and begin a "democratic struggle."</a> Ocalan has been in jail since 1999, and his statement was read out in Kurdish and Turkish during the Nevruz celebrations in the southeastern city of Diyarbakir.<br />
<br />
The reason why this cease-fire is so monumental is that Turkey has a "Kurdish problem." It's a complicated issue -- I don't pretend to completely understand the situation, but I'll do my best to explain. It's an incredibly politically and emotionally charged issue, and Turks hold <i>passionate</i> views on the topic.<br />
<br />
The short version is that after the Turkish Republic was founded in 1923, <a href="http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1675165,00.html">the leadership wanted Turkey to be Turkish</a> and did not really permit other expressions of identity/ethnicity. However, Turkey has a significant Kurdish population (the estimations differ but it's somewhere <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurds_in_Turkey">between 12 million and 25 million</a> of Turkey's <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/news-269805-.html">75 million citizens</a>) that lives mainly in the southeast. Through oppression and lack of economic development, the government tried to assimilate the Kurds into the mainstream (and thus, snuff out their culture). As a result of all this, a terrorist group (the aforementioned PKK) was formed in the 1970s and began violent attacks in the 1980s to fight for Kurdish rights and independence. Since then, some 40,000 people have been killed in the conflict. In recent years, the government has been holding secret talks with Ocalan, trying to come up with a solution. The cease-fire was not a surprise -- there had been reports about it at least a week prior -- and the conditions (lay down arms/leave the country) mirror reports in the last year of what the government's conditions were for resolution.<br />
<br />
So hooray, peace and victory! Hahahaha -- just kidding. There doesn't seem to be a lot of celebration -- instead, the cease-fire has created much controversy, criticism, questions and highly charged emotion. [Update: I saw a number of "hooray, victory!" columns in <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/columnistMenuDetail.action?sectionId=6">Sunday's paper</a>, though some of that has already given way to discussions about Israel's apology over the Mavi Marmara incident.]<br />
<br />
It's important to note the government has not exactly been heroes in this. In general, the current government has gone aggressively after people, including politicians, journalists and military members, who it sees as critics or threats. Discussing the validity of those trials is a whole other (highly controversial) subject, so I won't go there. Let's just say that in this specific situation, "blaming the Kurds, who were identified with terrorism or political dissent by the majority of Turks, <a href="http://www.turkishpolicy.com/dosyalar/files/vol_11-no_3%20mitchell.pdf">[enabled] Ankara to justify policies that often do not discriminate between armed guerillas and disgruntled civilians</a>," writes Gabriel Mitchell in <i>A "Kurdish Reset": Erdogan's Last Chance? </i>In other words, there have been a number of people arguably unfairly jailed <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/columnist-310905-leyla-zanas-contribution-to-peace.html">for not towing the party line</a>.<br />
<br />
A month ago, one newspaper published the minutes of a secret parliamentary visit to Ocalan, and the prime minister accused the paper of acting against the national interest of the country -- which then led to (more) discussions about <a href="http://www.fairobserver.com/article/turkeys-press-freedom-crisis">press freedom (or the lack of) in Turkey</a>, and <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/daily-milliyet-parts-ways-with-prominent-journalist-cemal-after-imrali-leaks-debate.aspx?PageID=238&NID=43236&NewsCatID=341">the firing/quitting of a prominent journalist</a>. The leader of the main opposition party is now saying that <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/turkish-main-opposition-chp-calls-on-pm-to-unveil-negotiations.aspx?pageID=238&nID=43431&NewsCatID=338">no one knows what Prime Minister Erdogan and Ocalan have agreed to</a>. Reading between the lines, there <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/erdogans-credibility-gap.aspx?pageID=238&nid=44957">seems to be concern</a> that the PKK and Ocalan himself, a man who has been called a baby-killer, are being legitimized as a player in the democratic process through an undemocratic, secret process (and that the violence and deaths of the last 30 years are sort of being glossed over). This is especially important as Turkey is attempting to write a new constitution that will shape the future of the country -- and, as one columnist wrote, "there is also concern that <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/columnistDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=310368">peace is [being] used as a bargaining chip to support Prime Minister Erdogan's presidential ambitions</a>."<br />
<br />
Another concern, again mostly reading between the lines, seems to be that the cease-fire is actually the first step in fracturing Turkey instead of heralding the <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/pkk-leader-tells-militants-to-leave-turkey-in-nevruz-message.aspx?pageID=238&nID=43373&NewsCatID=338">"building of a 'new Turkey'."</a> There were no Turkish flags at the event in Diyarbakir, <a href="http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/absence-of-flag-causes-mayhem-at-turkish-parliament.aspx?pageID=238&nid=43411">which made a lot of people angry</a> -- and <a href="http://www.todayszaman.com/newsDetail_getNewsById.action?newsId=310318">if you watch the video</a>, you'll see a number of red-green-yellow Kurdish flags and plenty of yellow flags featuring Ocalan's portrait. Not surprisingly, <a href="http://www.hurriyet.com.tr/gundem/22884825.asp">the nationalists went crazy</a>.<br />
<br />
This is only the beginning, and I have no doubt that there will be a lot written about the cease-fire in the coming days, weeks and months. I hope for my part that I have done it some justice in the explanation.<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-44801462692065142592013-03-20T16:33:00.000+02:002013-03-20T16:33:00.463+02:00Adventures in Renewing a Residency PermitMany of you don't know me personally, but I think it's fair to say that I am an upstanding, law-abiding citizen. I've never been arrested, I've never been inside an American police station, and I've only been inside a court of law for jury duty. So, much to my surprise, when I went to renew my residence permit three weeks ago, the officer told me I had broken the law by not declaring my change in marital status within 15 days of getting married.<br />
<br />
Let me back up...To live in Turkey for any length of time, you have to apply for a residence visa (ikamet). For North Americans and Western Europeans, it's a straight-forward process -- in Istanbul, you <a href="http://yabancilar.iem.gov.tr/">make an appointment on the website</a> and pay the money, which is<a href="http://kalkan.turkishlocalnews.com/portal/kalkan-news/139424-turkish-residency-fees-slashed-from-1st-april-2011"> about $160 for the first year</a> (and it's only that expensive because the first time around, you have to buy a poorly constructed little blue visa book for $80). While you don't have the right to work with a residence permit, you don't have to do anything special (as a Westerner) to get one -- the Turkish government is happy to take your money and let you live here, and they don't care why you want to stay.<br />
<br />
Getting a residence permit in Turkey is easy; <i>getting an appointment</i> to get a residency permit (or renew or change it) is another matter entirely. See, the online system doesn't work very well, and this is where our problems came in. We tried to make an appointment in August after we got married, but the website wasn't working. Cagatay went to the office in person, and the officer there at the time told him it was broken and that we just had to wait until it was fixed -- and no, he couldn't make an appointment in person. So we checked and checked again and around the beginning of October, we managed to get an appointment for mid-November. That was the day I was going home for Thanksgiving and since we weren't able to change the appointment (you couldn't then, maybe you can now), I just had to skip it. Back to square one.<br />
<br />
When I got back to Istanbul at the end of November, I tried to make a new appointment. I checked the website for about three weeks and usually, it just looked like this:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCaxpF4NjYTwx3yEFfmR4eQ71eQZUCUUPSBsVAsx6KcyEs5vTJj1B2Y1a1_TH4Frc7T_-RYykvMUCXXHvZN4otpMTWqhK5hayUsyIxYLebe4HAYJbpWYeaO76fHs5CFDoYeahfX-hdWbA0/s1600/Yabanci+Buro+Istanbul+appointment.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCaxpF4NjYTwx3yEFfmR4eQ71eQZUCUUPSBsVAsx6KcyEs5vTJj1B2Y1a1_TH4Frc7T_-RYykvMUCXXHvZN4otpMTWqhK5hayUsyIxYLebe4HAYJbpWYeaO76fHs5CFDoYeahfX-hdWbA0/s640/Yabanci+Buro+Istanbul+appointment.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The website always lists just three appointment dates, and they're always full. I was starting to panic because my residency permit expired at the beginning of February, and as you can see from today's screenshot, the appointments are for months later. [In fairness, you just have to make the appointment before your ikamet expires -- they accept your reservation date as "the" date, though I don't think you would be able to leave the country in the in-between period.] Anyway, after about three weeks of checking the website, I finally managed to get an appointment for the end of February.<br />
<br />
So, here we are, present time. We went to the appointment as scheduled, and our intention was to renew my residence permit and to update my marital status. Cagatay explained to the officer why we hadn't come earlier, but the guy really didn't care. So the website was broken? Not his problem. So it's nearly impossible to get an appointment? Also not his problem. [Oh, btw, I also contacted the American Consulate in December about this issue, and guess what? Not their problem either.] The officer said that they release 100 appointments a month (per branch, I'm assuming) and that all the private companies that organize your paperwork for a fee know when the appointments are released and snap them up. Which explains why it's so f'ing difficult to get an appointment -- but hey, not his problem.<br />
<br />
So, despite our objections, he told us we had to pay a fine. It wasn't actually that bad (about $78), but we were annoyed in principle. But we couldn't pay the fine then -- first, he had to organize the paperwork and then we would have to go to our local police station about a week later. So, the next week, we did that. The police officer there was very understanding, but he said since it was in the system, there was nothing anyone could do. We spent about an hour there and in the end, I signed some paper in Turkish attesting to my "guilt." This officer said that he would give the paperwork to a supervisor and in 10 days, we could go back to the municipality office to actually pay the fine. So, we did that -- about 10 days later, we paid the fine in one office and showed our receipt to the residency permit guy in a building down the street. Once we showed the receipt, he gave us the residency permit paperwork, and we went to the tax office (by cab) in another area of Istanbul to actually pay for the renewal. Then we went back to the municipality office to show that receipt. He said we could come back to pick up the residency permit in about a week. That's today -- three weeks later.<br />
<br />
If you've followed along through all this, I'm sure you've realized what the moral of the story is. If not, here it is in brief: Start early for anything involving a Turkish residency permit. Start months earlier than you think you need to. Trust me on this.<br />
<br />Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269570146123780105.post-84266921302730353792013-03-19T15:44:00.002+02:002013-03-19T15:44:16.869+02:00It Might Be Spring...<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOWjoDGTHhpESee6ZnFonr-ukQzG-VbvvcJrbSqZE0F7LXkkhZ7vCAuA-JnjpytPoDcpWVc8sQ2NUfu6J_RYG0eEfVtgZUivbaY0mzZlPllLxLqe7dNi-4PvRaZGBYeOWga0eHokXx402/s1600/Red+tulips+Besiktas+Barbaros+Blvd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivOWjoDGTHhpESee6ZnFonr-ukQzG-VbvvcJrbSqZE0F7LXkkhZ7vCAuA-JnjpytPoDcpWVc8sQ2NUfu6J_RYG0eEfVtgZUivbaY0mzZlPllLxLqe7dNi-4PvRaZGBYeOWga0eHokXx402/s640/Red+tulips+Besiktas+Barbaros+Blvd.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
I have my fingers crossed that spring is actually here. We had a really mild winter in Istanbul, so it was really no surprise when the trees started to bloom about two weeks ago. And then we were walking around Besiktas last week, and it was 70 degrees and sunny...and shockingly, the first tulips were starting to bloom, a month early. We had a slight blip of bad weather this past weekend, 40 degrees and rainy, but I'm really hoping that's just winter's way of saying see ya. Hooray, SPRING!!!<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Melindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12716040655603137179noreply@blogger.com0